Friday, August 7, 2009
Photographic Journey
I just finally got all my pics from the whole trail experience up on Picasa: click here. Have a look!! (300+ photos, mind you...take it in stride)
Sunday, August 2, 2009
What A Long Strange Trip It's Been
Well KOA followers, whoever you may be after three and a half months, my hike has come to an end. Last Wednesday I summitted mighty Mt. Washington, highest peak in the northern half of the AT, Thursday I hitched into Gorham, NH from Pinkham Notch at the base of Mt. Washington and later that evening I decided that I had reached the end of my journey. I'm actually home in Newtown Square now thanks to a ride to the Manchester Airport from Susie's Mom, a trail angel in the truest sense, and a flight home to Phillayy.
Why in god's name would I stop the trail with just over 300mi to go? The physical act of hiking was just no longer fun for me anymore. I was tired of being so disconnected from family and friends. I realized climbing Katahdin wasn't as important as the journey itself and I had already accomplished all I needed to in my 1800+ mile hike. I realized that mom would be proud of me anyway.
The White Mountains were absolutely spectacular and some of the most difficult and dangerous hiking I've ever done. The rocks and peaks were humbling. Perhaps that had something to do with it as well. Maybe spending those four nights with Mom Dave Kev Mima & Papa made me realize how much I missed family and that end o'day shower. I have every intention of finishing those 300 miles some time in the near future and reaching Katahdin on my own terms - the feeling will be just as sweet as having thru-hiked the whole dang thing in one fell swoop. I wouldn't trade this past three and a half months on the trail for the world. It was just time to come home.
I leave you with a quote from a column regarding our relationships with the natural world in the Winter/Spring 2009 Appalachia Journal put out by the Appalachian Mountain Club (AMC) that I read in Mizpah Spring Hut:
"If you don't know the ground, you are probably wrong about nearly everything else," Norman Maclean wrote somewhere. Our culture hardly sets foot on wild ground anymore. Learning to know the ground requires both intellectual knowledge and experiencing life out there upon it, which turns out to be exactly the same process as reconnecting with the wilder world - an exercise we now recognize to be necessary to the health of our earth and the survival of civilization itself. Our backcountry fears are signals to us of our opportunities for reconnection; they direct us to go out there with respect, romancing the land and the life upon it, participating with it. And not expecting that land or the wild creatures to love us back. That requital will in fact come from within."
In case you just haven't gotten your fill of the AT this summer, I'd encourage you to follow Greenlite, Buckeye & Flex to the end of their journeys (their names link to their trailjournals). Greenlite & Buckeye should be finishing within 2-3 weeks and Flex by the end of August.
McKee clan - can't wait to see you all at Kristin's wedding!!!
Saturday, July 25, 2009
MOOOOOOOOOOOSE
Saw one! Yessss. It was just wangin' out on the side of the trail and took no offense to my presence at all apparently. So this is my last civilized night for awhile and the end of the line for frequent blog postings - another tearful goodbye to my laptop. I 'slackpacked' (read: carried just a daypack) 16mi today from Kinsman Notch to Franconia Notch and tomorrow I head up Mt. Lincoln, Franconia Ridge & Mt. Lafayette. Pics below are of said moose, the trail as a ginormous puddle which it pretty much has been the past few days and my first sweet views from the Whites after the weather finally cleared up. A special thanks goes out to trail angels Mom, Dave, Kev, Mima & Papa for making my hike so gosh darn cushy this past week!
Still haven't figured out this horizontal thing.
Still haven't figured out this horizontal thing.
Friday, July 24, 2009
Kancamagus Krossings
Mt. Moosilauke destroyed me today. Anyone ever hiked down the North side? Beaver Brook Trail? Holy crap. Steep, slick, endless rock city. Thankfully I was forewarned and took it extra slow so I left enough time to wince in pain with each step. Made it to NH112/Kinsman Notch today up near Lincoln/North Woodstock, NH where I got picked up by Mom Dave & Kev to head over to Waterville Valley for the night with Mima and Papa! (Note: stuffed again). A few more peaks and Franconia Notch bound tomorrow to relive Freshman DOC Trips - rain and all. Maybe catch a glimpse of where the Old Man of the Mountain used to be before its collapse in 2003.
"Men hang out their signs indicative of their respective trades; shoe makers hang out a gigantic shoe; jewelers a monster watch, and the dentist hangs out a gold tooth; but up in the Mountains of New Hampshire, God Almighty has hung out a sign to show that there He makes men." ~ Daniel Webster
Few pics:
Moosilauke Summit, sweet view
Extreme close-up on Moosilauke (self-portrait!)
Trail Magic found in woods near NH 25A a few days back
Kevman and I, Waterville Town Center
And finally, I just saw this for the first time. Best part happens around the 6min mark. Enjoy if you gots the time:
"Men hang out their signs indicative of their respective trades; shoe makers hang out a gigantic shoe; jewelers a monster watch, and the dentist hangs out a gold tooth; but up in the Mountains of New Hampshire, God Almighty has hung out a sign to show that there He makes men." ~ Daniel Webster
Few pics:
Moosilauke Summit, sweet view
Extreme close-up on Moosilauke (self-portrait!)
Trail Magic found in woods near NH 25A a few days back
Kevman and I, Waterville Town Center
And finally, I just saw this for the first time. Best part happens around the 6min mark. Enjoy if you gots the time:
Wednesday, July 22, 2009
Been Walking My Mind to an Easy Time
My back turned towards the sun...
So Northward, ho from here. I'll start tomorrow from Lyme-Dorchester Rd. near the Dartmouth Skiway and just might be Moosilauke-bound by the end of the day. Possible stay at the Ravine Lodge, not sure yet. I've been hiking alone through familiar territory this past week- with determination, reflection and a little peace of mind. Greenlite and I have decided after being on the rocks for a bit that our relationship out here just isn't going to work out and we're hiking our own hikes for a few days before reuniting as friends to finish what we started and tackle the Whites. The Trail is a great leveling agent - picks you up, knocks you down, makes you feel naive, makes you feel wise beyond your years, makes you confident over rocks and wildlife, makes you bow to nature, makes you turn inward and dig deep when it's you against the mountain...and then the next mountain, and then the next... silly trail.
So Northward, ho from here. I'll start tomorrow from Lyme-Dorchester Rd. near the Dartmouth Skiway and just might be Moosilauke-bound by the end of the day. Possible stay at the Ravine Lodge, not sure yet. I've been hiking alone through familiar territory this past week- with determination, reflection and a little peace of mind. Greenlite and I have decided after being on the rocks for a bit that our relationship out here just isn't going to work out and we're hiking our own hikes for a few days before reuniting as friends to finish what we started and tackle the Whites. The Trail is a great leveling agent - picks you up, knocks you down, makes you feel naive, makes you feel wise beyond your years, makes you confident over rocks and wildlife, makes you bow to nature, makes you turn inward and dig deep when it's you against the mountain...and then the next mountain, and then the next... silly trail.
Where the Winds Hit Heavy on the Borderline
Well then, at Lake Morey Resort in Fairlee, VT at the moment due to extremely fortuitous timing - Mom, Dave & Kev have their week of vacay here this summer just when I happened to be rolling through. Back where we left off in MA:
* In another instance of good timing, I was able to catch Raina driving back from a weekend home in Williamstown in Dalton, MA and she gave Greenlite and I a ride back to Boston for some quality Raina-time and a chance to hit good old Cohasset, MA for a few days. It was good to hear how she's doing despite her Organic Chem. courses this summer and hear tales of a trip she planned up to Armington Cabin for Boston folks this spring - Armington holds a special place in me heart.
* A 'T' ride later we met up with Papa in Quincy to head back to Cohasset!! This was a particularly special visit, not only because Papa just turned 80 and Mima just hit 39 again, but also because I have never arrived at the Kelley household with such an out-of-control appetite. Being force-fed is a thru-hiker's dream! Cheese & crackers w/salami, cashews, salad, garlic bread, manicotti, pork tenderloin and a brownie sundae later...I think I blacked out. It was wonderful. In the short visit to Cohasset we were able to see a sizeable portion of the Kelley clan - cousins getting so big! Also got to see the ocean and hit the beach for a few, which was huge. In an extreme act of kindness, Papa drove us 3hrs West back out to Dalton, MA (turns out Massachusetts is deceivingly large) on Tuesday morning where we again hit the trail.
* From Dalton we were able to hike to the peak of Mt. Greylock that eve, the highest point in MA. On top there is a monument to all soldiers from Massachusetts with an amazing view as well as Bascom Lodge, a beautiful lodge built by the Civilian Conservation Corps currently undergoing restoration and slated to reopen as a gift shop/cafe/hotel/hiker hostel within a few weeks (pic below). Even more exciting was Fahmah and Ma Fahmah (pic below below) who drove out from Templeton, MA to grill us up an amazing meal in an instance of sweet sweet trail magic. We met Fahmah, who thru-hiked in '07, back in mid-May when he gave Greenlite and I a ride from TN back to where we were on the trail in Virginia after Hardcore. They were full of motivation and tales of what was to come in Vermont, New Hampshire & Maine. Fahmah also brought us over to the lodge to sweettalk the owner into letting us snag one of the bunks for cheap even though they weren't really open to the public yet. Throw the sunset in the mix and it was definitely one of the best nights on the trail yet.
* The next day we hauled into Vermont to meet the Lyyyddiiiaaa!!! outside Bennington to join up and hike for a few days. For the sake of brevity and since she gave such an accurate description in her post below I will say that it was Wonderful to see her and hear about her summer in Israel and Croatia before she starts grad school. I'm mighty pumped we'll be within a few hours of each other this fall.
So Vermont came and went. I hiked into Hanover from South Pomfret yesterday and it was a cool feeling to walk over the West Harford bridge and Rt14, to emerge on Elm St. in Norwich, hit Main St., walk down towards the I91 underpass, over the Ledyard Bridge, up that hill that used to give me such a hard time as an undergrad living on West Wheelock St, and into good old Hanover. It hasn't changed a bit except those kids just keep getting younger and younger. Mike Rosensweig '06, of All My Deals Are Live fame, was awesome to put me up for the night and teach me the ropes of post-grad life in Hanover. Stopped into Canoe Club to say hi to the Jacketed-Chapin-Friend and was able to get dominated by a few '11s in a game of pong at Psi U. So it goes...
* In another instance of good timing, I was able to catch Raina driving back from a weekend home in Williamstown in Dalton, MA and she gave Greenlite and I a ride back to Boston for some quality Raina-time and a chance to hit good old Cohasset, MA for a few days. It was good to hear how she's doing despite her Organic Chem. courses this summer and hear tales of a trip she planned up to Armington Cabin for Boston folks this spring - Armington holds a special place in me heart.
* A 'T' ride later we met up with Papa in Quincy to head back to Cohasset!! This was a particularly special visit, not only because Papa just turned 80 and Mima just hit 39 again, but also because I have never arrived at the Kelley household with such an out-of-control appetite. Being force-fed is a thru-hiker's dream! Cheese & crackers w/salami, cashews, salad, garlic bread, manicotti, pork tenderloin and a brownie sundae later...I think I blacked out. It was wonderful. In the short visit to Cohasset we were able to see a sizeable portion of the Kelley clan - cousins getting so big! Also got to see the ocean and hit the beach for a few, which was huge. In an extreme act of kindness, Papa drove us 3hrs West back out to Dalton, MA (turns out Massachusetts is deceivingly large) on Tuesday morning where we again hit the trail.
* From Dalton we were able to hike to the peak of Mt. Greylock that eve, the highest point in MA. On top there is a monument to all soldiers from Massachusetts with an amazing view as well as Bascom Lodge, a beautiful lodge built by the Civilian Conservation Corps currently undergoing restoration and slated to reopen as a gift shop/cafe/hotel/hiker hostel within a few weeks (pic below). Even more exciting was Fahmah and Ma Fahmah (pic below below) who drove out from Templeton, MA to grill us up an amazing meal in an instance of sweet sweet trail magic. We met Fahmah, who thru-hiked in '07, back in mid-May when he gave Greenlite and I a ride from TN back to where we were on the trail in Virginia after Hardcore. They were full of motivation and tales of what was to come in Vermont, New Hampshire & Maine. Fahmah also brought us over to the lodge to sweettalk the owner into letting us snag one of the bunks for cheap even though they weren't really open to the public yet. Throw the sunset in the mix and it was definitely one of the best nights on the trail yet.
* The next day we hauled into Vermont to meet the Lyyyddiiiaaa!!! outside Bennington to join up and hike for a few days. For the sake of brevity and since she gave such an accurate description in her post below I will say that it was Wonderful to see her and hear about her summer in Israel and Croatia before she starts grad school. I'm mighty pumped we'll be within a few hours of each other this fall.
So Vermont came and went. I hiked into Hanover from South Pomfret yesterday and it was a cool feeling to walk over the West Harford bridge and Rt14, to emerge on Elm St. in Norwich, hit Main St., walk down towards the I91 underpass, over the Ledyard Bridge, up that hill that used to give me such a hard time as an undergrad living on West Wheelock St, and into good old Hanover. It hasn't changed a bit except those kids just keep getting younger and younger. Mike Rosensweig '06, of All My Deals Are Live fame, was awesome to put me up for the night and teach me the ropes of post-grad life in Hanover. Stopped into Canoe Club to say hi to the Jacketed-Chapin-Friend and was able to get dominated by a few '11s in a game of pong at Psi U. So it goes...
Tuesday, July 21, 2009
Yes... behind THIS tree!
It's Kelley here. Since I’m now the only person who's hiked with Kim on the AT and yet to blog... I’m feeling a little guilty!
As Momma Kath (Highlife) stepped off the trail in northern NJ, I swapped in to start my 48 hr adventure across the NJ-NY border. Before beginning the trek, Blue Sky, Greenlite, Highlife and I sat down at a restaurant for some lunch where I mentioned I really wanted to get a trail name - I wanted to be like the cool kids - though I think I opened my mouth too soon. Kath had apparently already had one in mind: "BB"... which stands for "Big Boobs"... great - thanks Mom. Since I wasn’t quick enough to come up w/ a better alternative, "BB" stuck though Kim did add "Guns" on the end the next day... and so began my adventure on the trail as "BB Guns".
My observations from Trail-life:
1. My little sister is a beast - and I mean that in the best way possible! Kim realized after lunch she left something at the house they stayed at the night before, so while Kath drove her back to get it, I started off w/ Greenlite. My first few hours of hiking was all uphill going up the side of a mountain - it sucked (and even more so since I forgot my inhaler). I totally thought it would take most the day for her to catch up to us as we had about an hour head start. I thought we (and by we, I mean me) were moving at a decent pace - but no, I turn around about 2hrs into the hike during a quick break in order to catch my breath, and Kim is running up the trail behind us and seemingly barely breaking a sweat. I was super impressed with her speed and strength - and that was only the tip of the iceberg of things I witnessed over the 2 days that left me in awe of my sister.
2. Hikers smell... I mean - they REALLY SMELL. I was seriously offended by their stench - but I guess that's what happens when you sweat profusely and wear the same clothes practically every day. I mean, sure they get to "wash" their clothes every few days... but it gets rid of the dirt/mud... not the smell. I got made fun of (one of the many instances - you already heard about the tree comment) when I added my deodorant to the bear bag. Kim, Greenlite and Sir Richard (a funny Brit who hiked w/ us that day) expressed their disbelief in unison that I actually brought deodorant onto the trail. I was in disbelief they didn’t have any... but they claim it does no good (I still beg to differ). Apparently Kim no longer smells the stench of herself or other hikers... she only can smell clean people, like me. Upon reaching Mt. Katadhin, I will personally burn all her clothes and then my present to her will be a day at a spa to clean her up before re-entering civilization! (Note to Kim: this is non-negotiable)
3. I seriously thought hitch-hiking ended in the 1970s. In a 24hr span - I got to hitch-hike 3 times... twice w/ Kim and once by myself (kinda - it was random but pre-arranged). I hope it’s the only three times I ever do it. We finished our hiking on the 4th of July and were trying to reach Greenlite and Sir Richard who were about 10driving miles away from us sitting at a "Pizzeria Uno in a strip mall in Harriman, NY". (those were our directions to meet them). I tried to call taxi services (I live in a city - it's what I do) but Kim was able to flag down a truck before they picked up the phone. He drove us down to the main road that led into Harriman but was heading in the opposite direction from there. Next we flagged down a bus right as we were about to give up and walk after 20 unsuccessful minutes of standing there... it was seriously like the last scene from Dumb and Dumber sans hawaiian tropic models. Bus goes by us, driver hits the brakes, bus stops 100ft down the road... door opens. Magical. My last experience was probably my favorite because it was so absurd. Since the taxi service wasn’t open and I could barely walk 10ft let alone 5 miles to the train station, I got a lift from the night receptionist who was finishing his shift at the ghetto motel we stayed at on 4th of July in his corvette... um yes... corvette.
4. Trail is way more difficult that I would have thought, both mentally and physically, and I was hiking in an easier section. The 24 miles I traversed was either on a ridgeline or ascending/descending small mountains. The few flat areas we encountered, the path had turned to mud from all the rain. Gross. I will admit, the last 5 miles we hiked - I developed a mild case of Tourettes and would just yell random profanities as I aggravated one of my seven blisters or slipped off a rock and my foot went into stream. It wasn’t my finest moment. But at the end of the day, when you hit your destination, kick off the shoes and crack open a beer - it's sweet heaven.
24 miles over a day and half was more than enough for me - knowing that Kim has done 20+ miles a day for over 3 months is just beyond impressive and I have such a respect for her determination and perseverance. This is not a feat I would/could undertake and it’s such a huge accomplishment for anyone who can complete the full trail (which I know Kim will). As Kim's big sister - I’m used to being the planner, the one in charge, and the one to try things first. Yet here I was in a complete role reversal watching Kim blaze her own trail (pun intended) where she was the one leading, being the responsible one, and giving me instructions/directions. It was a pretty awesome thing to see and experience. I've missed "my dimmy" the past few months since I don’t get to speak to her everyday, so it was great to spend a quality few days with her and experience a nice small slice of Kim's life on the AT. I left the trail Sunday morning a very proud big sister. And as I sat unable to physically move on the trains back home to Philadelphia (with Momma Kath's 70s ski poles and exercise mat on my pack - yes I looked super cool in NY Penn Stn), Kimmy was off again to hike another 25 miles that day.
Good Luck Dim... while I wont be able to be waiting for you at Mt. Katadhin - I have a super-size bottle of Jack (the good stuff) waiting for you at my party Aug 22nd!
- BB Guns; Trail Life: 7/3/09-7/5/09
As Momma Kath (Highlife) stepped off the trail in northern NJ, I swapped in to start my 48 hr adventure across the NJ-NY border. Before beginning the trek, Blue Sky, Greenlite, Highlife and I sat down at a restaurant for some lunch where I mentioned I really wanted to get a trail name - I wanted to be like the cool kids - though I think I opened my mouth too soon. Kath had apparently already had one in mind: "BB"... which stands for "Big Boobs"... great - thanks Mom. Since I wasn’t quick enough to come up w/ a better alternative, "BB" stuck though Kim did add "Guns" on the end the next day... and so began my adventure on the trail as "BB Guns".
My observations from Trail-life:
1. My little sister is a beast - and I mean that in the best way possible! Kim realized after lunch she left something at the house they stayed at the night before, so while Kath drove her back to get it, I started off w/ Greenlite. My first few hours of hiking was all uphill going up the side of a mountain - it sucked (and even more so since I forgot my inhaler). I totally thought it would take most the day for her to catch up to us as we had about an hour head start. I thought we (and by we, I mean me) were moving at a decent pace - but no, I turn around about 2hrs into the hike during a quick break in order to catch my breath, and Kim is running up the trail behind us and seemingly barely breaking a sweat. I was super impressed with her speed and strength - and that was only the tip of the iceberg of things I witnessed over the 2 days that left me in awe of my sister.
2. Hikers smell... I mean - they REALLY SMELL. I was seriously offended by their stench - but I guess that's what happens when you sweat profusely and wear the same clothes practically every day. I mean, sure they get to "wash" their clothes every few days... but it gets rid of the dirt/mud... not the smell. I got made fun of (one of the many instances - you already heard about the tree comment) when I added my deodorant to the bear bag. Kim, Greenlite and Sir Richard (a funny Brit who hiked w/ us that day) expressed their disbelief in unison that I actually brought deodorant onto the trail. I was in disbelief they didn’t have any... but they claim it does no good (I still beg to differ). Apparently Kim no longer smells the stench of herself or other hikers... she only can smell clean people, like me. Upon reaching Mt. Katadhin, I will personally burn all her clothes and then my present to her will be a day at a spa to clean her up before re-entering civilization! (Note to Kim: this is non-negotiable)
3. I seriously thought hitch-hiking ended in the 1970s. In a 24hr span - I got to hitch-hike 3 times... twice w/ Kim and once by myself (kinda - it was random but pre-arranged). I hope it’s the only three times I ever do it. We finished our hiking on the 4th of July and were trying to reach Greenlite and Sir Richard who were about 10driving miles away from us sitting at a "Pizzeria Uno in a strip mall in Harriman, NY". (those were our directions to meet them). I tried to call taxi services (I live in a city - it's what I do) but Kim was able to flag down a truck before they picked up the phone. He drove us down to the main road that led into Harriman but was heading in the opposite direction from there. Next we flagged down a bus right as we were about to give up and walk after 20 unsuccessful minutes of standing there... it was seriously like the last scene from Dumb and Dumber sans hawaiian tropic models. Bus goes by us, driver hits the brakes, bus stops 100ft down the road... door opens. Magical. My last experience was probably my favorite because it was so absurd. Since the taxi service wasn’t open and I could barely walk 10ft let alone 5 miles to the train station, I got a lift from the night receptionist who was finishing his shift at the ghetto motel we stayed at on 4th of July in his corvette... um yes... corvette.
4. Trail is way more difficult that I would have thought, both mentally and physically, and I was hiking in an easier section. The 24 miles I traversed was either on a ridgeline or ascending/descending small mountains. The few flat areas we encountered, the path had turned to mud from all the rain. Gross. I will admit, the last 5 miles we hiked - I developed a mild case of Tourettes and would just yell random profanities as I aggravated one of my seven blisters or slipped off a rock and my foot went into stream. It wasn’t my finest moment. But at the end of the day, when you hit your destination, kick off the shoes and crack open a beer - it's sweet heaven.
24 miles over a day and half was more than enough for me - knowing that Kim has done 20+ miles a day for over 3 months is just beyond impressive and I have such a respect for her determination and perseverance. This is not a feat I would/could undertake and it’s such a huge accomplishment for anyone who can complete the full trail (which I know Kim will). As Kim's big sister - I’m used to being the planner, the one in charge, and the one to try things first. Yet here I was in a complete role reversal watching Kim blaze her own trail (pun intended) where she was the one leading, being the responsible one, and giving me instructions/directions. It was a pretty awesome thing to see and experience. I've missed "my dimmy" the past few months since I don’t get to speak to her everyday, so it was great to spend a quality few days with her and experience a nice small slice of Kim's life on the AT. I left the trail Sunday morning a very proud big sister. And as I sat unable to physically move on the trains back home to Philadelphia (with Momma Kath's 70s ski poles and exercise mat on my pack - yes I looked super cool in NY Penn Stn), Kimmy was off again to hike another 25 miles that day.
Good Luck Dim... while I wont be able to be waiting for you at Mt. Katadhin - I have a super-size bottle of Jack (the good stuff) waiting for you at my party Aug 22nd!
- BB Guns; Trail Life: 7/3/09-7/5/09
Monday, July 20, 2009
For the Lone Pine Above Her
At Lake Morey in Fairlee, VT with Mom Dave & Kev! I've had a pretty good run of hostels/showers/folks to stay with this past week. Hygiene like whoa (and a special thanks to Lydia for posting evidence of my commitment to dental hygiene). Getting dropped off at the trailhead in Pomfret, VT in the AM and hiking into Hanover tomorrow. Granite of New Hampshire in my muscles and my brains. Will blog out a bigger update tomorrow of MA and VT adventures but for now I'll just post some pics.
First moonshine from Lumpy at Sunfish Pond, NJ. (sorry for horizontal, rotate your screen)
Sunset over lake next to YMCA camp in NJ.
Sistaas, over Bellvale, NY
Dover Oak, Pawling, NY - Oldest, largest tree on the AT.
Sunset from Mt. Greylock
Sir Richard, Buckeye, Greenlite & Meself
Cairns gone wild, Green Mtn Nat'l Forest
Newly opened Amee Barn Hostel, Pittsfield, VT
Misty mornings, Pittsfield, VT
First moonshine from Lumpy at Sunfish Pond, NJ. (sorry for horizontal, rotate your screen)
Sunset over lake next to YMCA camp in NJ.
Sistaas, over Bellvale, NY
Dover Oak, Pawling, NY - Oldest, largest tree on the AT.
Sunset from Mt. Greylock
Sir Richard, Buckeye, Greenlite & Meself
Cairns gone wild, Green Mtn Nat'l Forest
Newly opened Amee Barn Hostel, Pittsfield, VT
Misty mornings, Pittsfield, VT
Saturday, July 18, 2009
My Grip is Packed to Travel
and I'm scratchin' gravel...
Today's story will be about trees. One of me favorite tree-comments was when dear Kelley was out hiking with us back in NJ/NY. We were throwing up our tents in a make-shift campsite in the middle of the woods and she had to stash her bug spray somewhere outside the tent since she forgot to put it in the, ahem...bear bag. I'm inside my tent listening to her say from some indiscriminate location within a 50ft radius, "okay guys, remind me tomorrow that I put it by the tree."
"THE tree"? I laugh.
But sometimes the trees are indeed distinct and take on stories of their own. I was immediately reminded of this little column/story I read in an old ATC (Appalachian Trail Conservancy) magazine from 2005 back in Greasy Creek Hostel back near Roan Mountain, TN. A man had walked into an ATC office somewhere in PA - I can't remember exactly where - and told the volunteer that he was looking for a tree. The ATC guy was a little bemused at the needle-in-a-haystack proposition, much like I was at Kel's little tree reference, but inquired as to which tree and why. The man explained how there was this beautiful, large oak tree that he was pretty sure was nearby on the trail next to a large creek and that he remembered it from a week-long hike he had done back in Boy Scouts - his father was the troop leader - when he was growing up. His father had in recent years suffered from Alzheimers and he struggled to identify family members and memories in general - but for some reason he had a few times brought this particular tree up to his son and remembered it clearly from the hike they had done so many years ago. This man wanted to find the tree, take a picture, and send it to his father in hopes of sparking memories and making a connection with him once again.
By some stroke of luck the ATC volunteer actually did have a pretty good idea of the prominent tree the man was referring to and set out to find it with him. They were able to find that spot on the trail and the tree in question and the man reflected something along the lines of "you know? That weeklong hike may have been one of the best times of my life."
Yeah I was pretty much tearing up reading this little trail tale (I am Mama Kath's daughter, after all), and it was better told in the magazine, but it gives a little glimpse into the connection to the trail some people feel. I'm going to make a concerted effort to get a little more reflective in this last 500 miles. Look out.
And in other news, congrats to Kevman on winning his latest golf tourney! Big sis is proud.
All Hands on Deck
Status: Achy
Projected Mileage for the Day: 25mi
Last Movie Seen: HP6
Ben & Jerry's Consumed: Pint & change
Weather: Not Good
Fording the River?: Caulking the Wagon
A video before I go. As previously stated, will finish the updates in Rutland!
Projected Mileage for the Day: 25mi
Last Movie Seen: HP6
Ben & Jerry's Consumed: Pint & change
Weather: Not Good
Fording the River?: Caulking the Wagon
A video before I go. As previously stated, will finish the updates in Rutland!
Friday, July 17, 2009
Where's Walden?
OH HI! Yes I've been slacking a wee bit on the blog but thankfully Highlife and Lydia have picked up said slack in my internet absence. I'm knee-deep in Vermont!! and currently on the part of the AT that coincides with the Long Trail for 105mi. The Long Trail (namesake of a very fine microbrewery) runs for 272mi from the Mass border to the Canadian border and is one of the oldest long distance trails in the country. History, people...history. Scenery hasn't sucked either. Currently in Manchester Center, VT at the Green Mountain House hostel where a very nice man from Ohio named Jeff lets hikers stay (real cheap) in his summer place with laundry, showers, kitchen, etc.
These past few weeks I've been extremely fortunate in receiving wonderful hospitality when I needed it. There have been many trail angels responsible for pushing me forward and I shall address them in bullet format as per usual:
* Our first day in Connecticut we were lucky to happen upon a woman playing with her two dogs (who are bomb swimmers) near the water at the confluence of the Ten Mile and Housatonic Rivers. Despite the hiker funk and fact that we were complete strangers, Norah invited us back with her to stay at her home for the night in South Kent, CT and cooked us the most wonderful dinner/breakfast for a mental and physical refuel. Most importantly, she noted that by calling our foodbags 'bear bags' when we hang them from trees at night - we're actually saying that the bag is indeed the bear's and practically inviting them to try their luck. We now refer to it as our supply bag and keep bear-free camps. It's liberating.
* From Kent I took off alone for the next four nights to see what I was made of - try the 'I Am Woman, Hear Me Roar' thing. It was a pretty cool experience being alone in the woods most of the day, the uncertainty of who I would see when it came time to camp, to make the mental push at the end of the day without a hiking buddy. I'm very glad I did it and felt completely safe despite my hesitations. When you're alone I feel like the senses are heightened - living amongst the real versions of fabric softener and cleaning agent scents...mountain breeze, summer showers, pinesol. Dreamy. I've since met up with Greenlite again and I have to say that having someone there to share in the moments & views with you is a pretty valuable part of the AT experience.
* A few days later I was also lucky to meet up with Grandpa's Dartmouth classmate, David Batchelder, and stay with him and his wife at their home in Salisbury, CT in the shadow of Bear Mountain. My sophomore year at Dartmouth I had actually hosted David's granddaughter, Addie, as she checked out the school so it was great to see them again, chat about Hanover, and get an update on Addie! Another hearty meal with a doggie bag of steak, potatoes, and berry pie to hit the trail with the next day. I dream sweetly of Connecticut.
* Other sweet spots. Goose Pond Cabin near Lee, MA. It's a cabin on a sizeable and scenic pond run by the Appalachian Mountain Club (AMC) with a full-time caretaker who makes you blueberry pancakes & coffee in the morning. The 'Cookie Lady' near Becket, MA who lives on a blueberry farm 0.1mi off the trail and leaves homecookies for hikers on her porch. Amazin'.
MORE TO COME! I have yet to tell of meeting up with Raina in Dalton, MA and catching a ride with her to Boston, my time taking a zero day in Cohasset with the Kelley clan, Mt. Greylock and trail magic from Fahmah and Ma Fahmah, the stay in Bascom Lodge, having Lydia come hike, Stratton Pond, running into Buckeye who we haven't seen since Daleville, VA...and the great journey North in general. 538mi to Katahdin! Will update again from Rutland, VT in a few days with the remainder. Thanks to Lyd for writing about her experience! Did you know Walker Fullerton is back in the country for a few days? Exciting. Hi Walker. Bye folks.
These past few weeks I've been extremely fortunate in receiving wonderful hospitality when I needed it. There have been many trail angels responsible for pushing me forward and I shall address them in bullet format as per usual:
* Our first day in Connecticut we were lucky to happen upon a woman playing with her two dogs (who are bomb swimmers) near the water at the confluence of the Ten Mile and Housatonic Rivers. Despite the hiker funk and fact that we were complete strangers, Norah invited us back with her to stay at her home for the night in South Kent, CT and cooked us the most wonderful dinner/breakfast for a mental and physical refuel. Most importantly, she noted that by calling our foodbags 'bear bags' when we hang them from trees at night - we're actually saying that the bag is indeed the bear's and practically inviting them to try their luck. We now refer to it as our supply bag and keep bear-free camps. It's liberating.
* From Kent I took off alone for the next four nights to see what I was made of - try the 'I Am Woman, Hear Me Roar' thing. It was a pretty cool experience being alone in the woods most of the day, the uncertainty of who I would see when it came time to camp, to make the mental push at the end of the day without a hiking buddy. I'm very glad I did it and felt completely safe despite my hesitations. When you're alone I feel like the senses are heightened - living amongst the real versions of fabric softener and cleaning agent scents...mountain breeze, summer showers, pinesol. Dreamy. I've since met up with Greenlite again and I have to say that having someone there to share in the moments & views with you is a pretty valuable part of the AT experience.
* A few days later I was also lucky to meet up with Grandpa's Dartmouth classmate, David Batchelder, and stay with him and his wife at their home in Salisbury, CT in the shadow of Bear Mountain. My sophomore year at Dartmouth I had actually hosted David's granddaughter, Addie, as she checked out the school so it was great to see them again, chat about Hanover, and get an update on Addie! Another hearty meal with a doggie bag of steak, potatoes, and berry pie to hit the trail with the next day. I dream sweetly of Connecticut.
* Other sweet spots. Goose Pond Cabin near Lee, MA. It's a cabin on a sizeable and scenic pond run by the Appalachian Mountain Club (AMC) with a full-time caretaker who makes you blueberry pancakes & coffee in the morning. The 'Cookie Lady' near Becket, MA who lives on a blueberry farm 0.1mi off the trail and leaves homecookies for hikers on her porch. Amazin'.
MORE TO COME! I have yet to tell of meeting up with Raina in Dalton, MA and catching a ride with her to Boston, my time taking a zero day in Cohasset with the Kelley clan, Mt. Greylock and trail magic from Fahmah and Ma Fahmah, the stay in Bascom Lodge, having Lydia come hike, Stratton Pond, running into Buckeye who we haven't seen since Daleville, VA...and the great journey North in general. 538mi to Katahdin! Will update again from Rutland, VT in a few days with the remainder. Thanks to Lyd for writing about her experience! Did you know Walker Fullerton is back in the country for a few days? Exciting. Hi Walker. Bye folks.
24 Hours on the Trail...
Hey! It's Lydia here, hacking into Kim's blog to report on my 24 hours on the trail with Kim and Green Lite.
First off, I am in complete and utter awe of those two - as I sit here nursing my blisters and aching legs, I cannot fathom how they have already made it over 1600 miles on foot.
I met up with Kim and Green Lite in Vermont close to the Massachusetts border. I can't tell you how happy I was to see Kim! Despite spending the last three months in the wilderness, Kim looks virtually the same - her hair is a bit shorter and her lean muscles put me to shame, but she's still Kim.
We met up in the late afternoon, so we had a nice 5-mile stroll (read: steep climb) to the spot where we camped for the night, which was a lovely dirt patch called Porcupine Ridge. A couple was also camped there, and it turns out the wife was an '02 Dartmouth grad. The '02 told Kim that she and her friends used to have a competition during sophomore summer to see who could kiss a thru-hiker! Let's just say that tradition must have fallen by the wayside by the time we were sophomores...
Kim and I woke up at 5:30 a.m. yesterday morning to get a head start on our day's hike (we were aiming to be at a road crossing 18 miles away by 2 p.m. for my mom to pick me up). It's a strange schedule out on the trail - breakfast at 6 a.m., lunch around 10:30, continuous eating throughout the day, dinner at 6, and bed at 9 p.m. As Kim said, 9 p.m. is the hiker's midnight.
Anyway, we hiked over Glastenbury Mountain, which has a fire tower at the top with beautiful 360 degree views of the forest. One book on the AT calls the mountain "hauntingly beautiful," perhaps because in the 1940s at least eight people vanished off the mountain at different times. Let's just say it's a good thing we decided not to tell ghost stories Wednesday night, and I was fairly happy to make it off the mountain.
I noted earlier how I am in utter awe of Kim and Green Lite, and I can tell you it is because of how much I struggled out on the trail yesterday! At about mile 14 of yesterday's hike, my ankle was screaming with pain and I pulled off my hiking boot to find a blister on my foot about the size of two quarters put together. When it was apparent we were going to really push it to meet my mom at 2, Kim and Green Lite both took some weight from my pack. At nearly mile 17, Green Lite ran ahead to direct my mom back to a fire access road a bit closer in order to pick me up.
After Green Lite took off, Kim and I spent a considerable amount of time envisioning the exchange between Green Lite - who at this point has quite a bushy beard - and my mom. As it turns out, my mother and my 16-year-old sister (who was also in the car) had never heard of the idea of a "trail name," so when Green Lite introduced himself (and then hopped in the car), they were quite confused. My sister said she thought he must have been the son of a celebrity to have such an odd name, and when we said goodbye to Kim and Green Lite, my mom said, "Goodbye Green Leaf!" She had forgotten his name and thought Green Leaf was a more logical name for a hiker.
The moral of the story is that I feel so honored to have gotten a glimpse of life on the AT with Kim and Green Lite. The people we encountered along the way were so impressed with their speed on the trail. I can tell you, the distance they cover in a day truly is impressive. A man we encountered is planning on covering the same distance in a week that Kim and Green Lite are traversing in two and a half days. In fact, I think Kim and Green Lite are probably just now getting to Manchester Center, VT, which is where this other man plans to exit the trail - in a week!
I'll stop there and let a few pictures tell the rest. But as I said, boy am I impressed.
Tuesday, July 7, 2009
It Was A Hard Day's Night
As promised by Blue Sky, it's Mama Kath (aka High Life) checking in with tales from the trail. I'd just like to start by announcing to the world (or anyone who reads this blog!) that I am extremely proud of Kimberley, with what she has accomplished to date and what she has left to accomplish. It was the experience of a lifetime for me to share a small part of her journey with her last week.
I met up with Blue Sky and Green Lite near High Point State Park in northwestern New Jersey. They had already hiked 11 miles that morning - all warmed up for me. The first thing Kim did was go through my frame pack and dump out things that she said I wouldn't need - a trail veteran! The afternoon was spent hiking across the ridges of NW New Jersey, beautiful vistas and voracious mosquitos. Three applications of bug juice were all in vain. After another 11 miles, Green Lite picked a spot to set up our tents and we literally dove into them and were all hunkered in by 6:30pm- the mosquitos were that bad! For the next three hours, until it got dark, I amused myself lying in my tent and watching all the mosquitos, ticks, spiders and random bugs flying and crawling on the outside of my mesh screen above my head - lots of fun! I'm pretty sure I barely slept - not even the heavy rain through the night would lull be to sleep.
We rose early, packed up the wet gear and started off. Still raining, but light. It's a good thing nobody cares what they look like on the trail - my attire that morning consisted of my long john bottoms, a coat with a hood leaving just my face exposed and a big yellow plastic poncho over that. Our hike this morning took us down off the ridge through "agricultural lands" which is just a euphanism for ankle deep muck. Another 11 miles of this and we were ready to stop for the day. As Kim mentioned, we decided to stay in Unionville, NY, population 600 and try a night at "The Outhouse", home of the Mayor. A special trail angel, the Mayor, a 71-year of named Dick, opens his home to thru hikers in honor of his deceased wife. We were picked up at the General Store by his helper, Butch, who drove us to the Outhouse blasting Deep Purple on the radio -a great omen. Once there, we were treated to the Rules of the House. There were a couple of interesting ones - if any word over 3 syllables in length were used, we owed them a quarter! Also, the first beer was free, they were a quarter a beer after that, limit of four. We were particularly amused by the one that told us we would have to watch a video in the living room after dinner. More on that later. Our stay at the Outhouse would include lodging, a shower, the opportunity to do laundry, internet access, beer and wine, dinner, breakfast the next morning, and a ride back to the trail. It was an amazing display of kindness and camaraderie, even if Dick did keep referring to the thru-hikers as dumb f***s. Cocktails on the deck ran all afternoon, dinner was fabulous, I cried during the story about Mrs Mayor,and the video turned out to be an inspirational life lesson fashioned around the story of Britain's Got Talent winner from a few seasons ago, Paul Potts. Seems Dick is a huge opera fan. We all watched attentively and took his words to heart. The message was to accomplish your dreams and he was happy to play a small role in helping the thru hikers reach Katahdin.
Not sure if trying to sleep on a plywood bunk with seven other funky-smelling thru hikers and their gear was an improvement over the insects the night before, but we gave it a go. After a hearty breakfast the next morning, people started out - Blue Sky and Green Lite to get in another 11 miles or so before big sister Kelley arrived and we "switched out" I decided my "contribution" to the Outhouse before I left was to scrub the two bathrooms in the house. I'll leave it to your imagination how disgustingly dirty they were to me - I'm sure the thru hikers didn't care!
In closing - I want to thank all of you who are reading this, because if you are, you are a friend of Kim's, important to her, and are supporting her in this herculean effort. She is a very special girl and I'm so fortunate to have a daughter like her. Hope to join her for a day hike up in Vermont and I will be at Katahdin with a bottle of champagne in August!
I met up with Blue Sky and Green Lite near High Point State Park in northwestern New Jersey. They had already hiked 11 miles that morning - all warmed up for me. The first thing Kim did was go through my frame pack and dump out things that she said I wouldn't need - a trail veteran! The afternoon was spent hiking across the ridges of NW New Jersey, beautiful vistas and voracious mosquitos. Three applications of bug juice were all in vain. After another 11 miles, Green Lite picked a spot to set up our tents and we literally dove into them and were all hunkered in by 6:30pm- the mosquitos were that bad! For the next three hours, until it got dark, I amused myself lying in my tent and watching all the mosquitos, ticks, spiders and random bugs flying and crawling on the outside of my mesh screen above my head - lots of fun! I'm pretty sure I barely slept - not even the heavy rain through the night would lull be to sleep.
We rose early, packed up the wet gear and started off. Still raining, but light. It's a good thing nobody cares what they look like on the trail - my attire that morning consisted of my long john bottoms, a coat with a hood leaving just my face exposed and a big yellow plastic poncho over that. Our hike this morning took us down off the ridge through "agricultural lands" which is just a euphanism for ankle deep muck. Another 11 miles of this and we were ready to stop for the day. As Kim mentioned, we decided to stay in Unionville, NY, population 600 and try a night at "The Outhouse", home of the Mayor. A special trail angel, the Mayor, a 71-year of named Dick, opens his home to thru hikers in honor of his deceased wife. We were picked up at the General Store by his helper, Butch, who drove us to the Outhouse blasting Deep Purple on the radio -a great omen. Once there, we were treated to the Rules of the House. There were a couple of interesting ones - if any word over 3 syllables in length were used, we owed them a quarter! Also, the first beer was free, they were a quarter a beer after that, limit of four. We were particularly amused by the one that told us we would have to watch a video in the living room after dinner. More on that later. Our stay at the Outhouse would include lodging, a shower, the opportunity to do laundry, internet access, beer and wine, dinner, breakfast the next morning, and a ride back to the trail. It was an amazing display of kindness and camaraderie, even if Dick did keep referring to the thru-hikers as dumb f***s. Cocktails on the deck ran all afternoon, dinner was fabulous, I cried during the story about Mrs Mayor,and the video turned out to be an inspirational life lesson fashioned around the story of Britain's Got Talent winner from a few seasons ago, Paul Potts. Seems Dick is a huge opera fan. We all watched attentively and took his words to heart. The message was to accomplish your dreams and he was happy to play a small role in helping the thru hikers reach Katahdin.
Not sure if trying to sleep on a plywood bunk with seven other funky-smelling thru hikers and their gear was an improvement over the insects the night before, but we gave it a go. After a hearty breakfast the next morning, people started out - Blue Sky and Green Lite to get in another 11 miles or so before big sister Kelley arrived and we "switched out" I decided my "contribution" to the Outhouse before I left was to scrub the two bathrooms in the house. I'll leave it to your imagination how disgustingly dirty they were to me - I'm sure the thru hikers didn't care!
In closing - I want to thank all of you who are reading this, because if you are, you are a friend of Kim's, important to her, and are supporting her in this herculean effort. She is a very special girl and I'm so fortunate to have a daughter like her. Hope to join her for a day hike up in Vermont and I will be at Katahdin with a bottle of champagne in August!
Felt the Lightning, Waited on the Thunder
Pawling, NY...library: Well folks a lot has happened in the past week and a half or so and I'll try to cover a few things here in bullet point format...me fave:
* Pennsylvania, New Jersey and now (almost) New York are states of my past. That's 9 states down and 5 to go (CT, MA, VT, NH and ME). That's 1435 miles down and 743 to go. 350 or so to Mt. Washington. Maybe 40 nights or so left out here. Countdowns are strange to think about.
* After all my talk and search of moonshine in the south, my first day in New Jersey I happened upon a few hikers that did Hardcore with us back after trail days and they had just driven up to Delaware Water Gap from Tennessee with a mason jar full of goodness. So I finally had my first moonshine and it was wonderful...didn't have a whole lot of bite to it really - much much smoother than Virginia Lightning. Anywho...that was 2 points for New Jersey.
* Saw my first rattler my last day in Pennsylvania. T'was about 5-6 ft. long and mildly terrifying - particularly with the startling manner in which it makes its presence known. I don't have a picture for you. Cool story, huh?
* Had first 'might be close to death' moment on a ridgeline in New Jersey when a thunderstorm rolled across the ridge and lightning started crashing around us. Greenlite did the old walk 30 yds behind me trick which I later determined was because lightning would probably on strike one of us instead of both and the other could go for help. Sweet. After one particularly terrifying crash, we managed to get down off the ridgeline and crouch under a rock overhang until it passed. Certain death averted.
* Mama Kath came out last Wednesday to Friday to hike with us!! She was ready to attack mountains and ogle at New Jersey vistas with her rockin' external framepack and ski poles. She braved some wet rocks, pouring rain, a lotta muck and a hellspawned cloud of mosquitos on the ridge where we camped - we couldn't even really get out of our tents - and all in good spirits. Our second night we were lucky enough to be hosted by the former mayor of Unionville, NY - a trail angel who takes hikers into his home and offers showers, dinner, breakfast, beer, bunks, laundry and inspirational motivation. There were probably 25-30 or so hikers there that night - this guy is a saint. I'll let Mama Kath tell a bit more about our stay at the Mayors - she's going to attempt to write her first blog post evaaa!
* Kelley came out and joined us from Friday to Sunday to help us celebrate the great birth of our nation, to cross the NJ/NY border and to bring the spirit of Camp McKee to the AT. She endured some mighty rocky trail, more rain, sparse water...and still managed to be excited about being out there even when all I can do is complain. Kel, Greenlite, Sir Richard and I spent the Fourth in Harriman, NY at the American Budget Inn (Americaa!!) watching Neil Diamond and drinking Busch Light. It was both magical and patriotic. Kel also got to experience the excitement of hitchhiking as we tried to get from the trailhead to town. A pickup truck, a charter bus and a mile of roadwalking later we saw that glorious 'motel' sign...score. All in all it was absolutely wonderful to have Mom and Kel come out and share in the experience with me - to be able to sigh knowingly when I whine about bugs, mud, rocks, so on and so forth.
* Onward into upstate New York - Harriman State Park was absolutely beautiful and it was mindblowing just how close to NYC it really was. From Shenandoah Mtn and Bear Mtn you could get a fairly clear view of the Manhatten Skyline. My friend Hustler who thru-hiked in '04 says he saw the view of the NYC Skyline and six hours later had a bear come into his camp...quite the trip. We saw a huge train of Japanese tourists out on a hike in Harriman State Park and though we had a bit of a language barrier all we could really make out was him asking if we were walking to Maine and telling Sir Richard and Greenlite that they looked like Jesus. Guess that's all we really needed to catch. To continue the Jesus theme, we camped in the ballfield at Graymoor Spiritual Life Center, a monastery not too far from Bear Mountain, NY that lets thru-hikers camp and use the outdoor showers. Good fun. Ms. Fieseler made a trail reappearance last night near Stormville, NY to meet up for dinner and tell tales of Belize !! Most wonderful.
Hope to have Mom and Kel do blog posts about their experiences soon!! Just turned dark and started hearing thunder outside which is no way for Connecticut to introduce itself but that's life. Stopping briefly in Kent, CT tomorrow and probably hitting Massachusetts by Thursday night. Now it's pouring. For the love of God. Think that about sums it up. Thanks to the nice library man that just told us to bring our stuff inside even though it smells of hiker funk. Nice folks here in Pawling. A few people have asked about the next maildrop and if you're interested in sending anything, I'll be stopping at the post office in Dalton, MA in 6-7 days. You can mail to:
Kim McKee
c/o General Delivery
Dalton, MA 01226
Hold for Thru-hiker ETA July 14
Now it's hailing. Oh cruel world...
* Pennsylvania, New Jersey and now (almost) New York are states of my past. That's 9 states down and 5 to go (CT, MA, VT, NH and ME). That's 1435 miles down and 743 to go. 350 or so to Mt. Washington. Maybe 40 nights or so left out here. Countdowns are strange to think about.
* After all my talk and search of moonshine in the south, my first day in New Jersey I happened upon a few hikers that did Hardcore with us back after trail days and they had just driven up to Delaware Water Gap from Tennessee with a mason jar full of goodness. So I finally had my first moonshine and it was wonderful...didn't have a whole lot of bite to it really - much much smoother than Virginia Lightning. Anywho...that was 2 points for New Jersey.
* Saw my first rattler my last day in Pennsylvania. T'was about 5-6 ft. long and mildly terrifying - particularly with the startling manner in which it makes its presence known. I don't have a picture for you. Cool story, huh?
* Had first 'might be close to death' moment on a ridgeline in New Jersey when a thunderstorm rolled across the ridge and lightning started crashing around us. Greenlite did the old walk 30 yds behind me trick which I later determined was because lightning would probably on strike one of us instead of both and the other could go for help. Sweet. After one particularly terrifying crash, we managed to get down off the ridgeline and crouch under a rock overhang until it passed. Certain death averted.
* Mama Kath came out last Wednesday to Friday to hike with us!! She was ready to attack mountains and ogle at New Jersey vistas with her rockin' external framepack and ski poles. She braved some wet rocks, pouring rain, a lotta muck and a hellspawned cloud of mosquitos on the ridge where we camped - we couldn't even really get out of our tents - and all in good spirits. Our second night we were lucky enough to be hosted by the former mayor of Unionville, NY - a trail angel who takes hikers into his home and offers showers, dinner, breakfast, beer, bunks, laundry and inspirational motivation. There were probably 25-30 or so hikers there that night - this guy is a saint. I'll let Mama Kath tell a bit more about our stay at the Mayors - she's going to attempt to write her first blog post evaaa!
* Kelley came out and joined us from Friday to Sunday to help us celebrate the great birth of our nation, to cross the NJ/NY border and to bring the spirit of Camp McKee to the AT. She endured some mighty rocky trail, more rain, sparse water...and still managed to be excited about being out there even when all I can do is complain. Kel, Greenlite, Sir Richard and I spent the Fourth in Harriman, NY at the American Budget Inn (Americaa!!) watching Neil Diamond and drinking Busch Light. It was both magical and patriotic. Kel also got to experience the excitement of hitchhiking as we tried to get from the trailhead to town. A pickup truck, a charter bus and a mile of roadwalking later we saw that glorious 'motel' sign...score. All in all it was absolutely wonderful to have Mom and Kel come out and share in the experience with me - to be able to sigh knowingly when I whine about bugs, mud, rocks, so on and so forth.
* Onward into upstate New York - Harriman State Park was absolutely beautiful and it was mindblowing just how close to NYC it really was. From Shenandoah Mtn and Bear Mtn you could get a fairly clear view of the Manhatten Skyline. My friend Hustler who thru-hiked in '04 says he saw the view of the NYC Skyline and six hours later had a bear come into his camp...quite the trip. We saw a huge train of Japanese tourists out on a hike in Harriman State Park and though we had a bit of a language barrier all we could really make out was him asking if we were walking to Maine and telling Sir Richard and Greenlite that they looked like Jesus. Guess that's all we really needed to catch. To continue the Jesus theme, we camped in the ballfield at Graymoor Spiritual Life Center, a monastery not too far from Bear Mountain, NY that lets thru-hikers camp and use the outdoor showers. Good fun. Ms. Fieseler made a trail reappearance last night near Stormville, NY to meet up for dinner and tell tales of Belize !! Most wonderful.
Hope to have Mom and Kel do blog posts about their experiences soon!! Just turned dark and started hearing thunder outside which is no way for Connecticut to introduce itself but that's life. Stopping briefly in Kent, CT tomorrow and probably hitting Massachusetts by Thursday night. Now it's pouring. For the love of God. Think that about sums it up. Thanks to the nice library man that just told us to bring our stuff inside even though it smells of hiker funk. Nice folks here in Pawling. A few people have asked about the next maildrop and if you're interested in sending anything, I'll be stopping at the post office in Dalton, MA in 6-7 days. You can mail to:
Kim McKee
c/o General Delivery
Dalton, MA 01226
Hold for Thru-hiker ETA July 14
Now it's hailing. Oh cruel world...
Saturday, June 27, 2009
Wide River To Cross
Well I find myself at home in Newtown Square after a week of PA hiking. I passed through Boiling Springs, Duncannon, Lickdale, Hamburg, Port Clinton, PA...up on ridges, through the valleys to the next ridges, across rivers, ad infinitum. Truthfully Pennsylvania has been a gorgeous state - sometimes rocky, both literally and figuratively, sometimes you're walking through beautiful farmlands on rolling hills, sometimes you're walking through old coal settlements...but I'd describe it most accurately right now as 'the middle'.
They say the first month of the trail is the physical challenge and once you're in shape it becomes much more of a mental challenge and I find myself in the thick of it - especially after having come home last weekend briefly and being confronted with all the comforts and 'stuff' from real life I've momentarily left behind. I've been hiking for two and a half months now and some of the novelty of getting to a town or a cool new shelter or the next shower or a vending machine has really worn off. Suddenly a town means spending more of the dwindling funds, the shelter means dealing with the skeeters while trying to sleep, the shower means 5min of cleanliness before the 'hiker funk' kicks back in, the vending machine means I chug the 20oz coke so I can throw the bottle in the trash before moving on - less baggage.
The hike just doesn't seem as 'fun' as it once did. The weight of the rest of the trail is hanging over me as I do the math and see I need to average 19-20mi days to reach Maine in time. I want to stay ahead of that average but it doesn't seem to pan out as such and I get anxious - probably for no real reason. The mentality is that I want to 'knock out miles' but there's that nagging sense that I should just calm self and focus on enjoying the present - but how much enjoyment do I really deserve when it was my choice to be unemployed and walk through the woods this spring/summer? It's just a weird spot to be in when you're free to choose your own schedule, but as a person who enjoys a sense of purpose - I always have Maine on the brain. It's been a weird and kinda difficult couple weeks and I do get the sense that other hikers are going through it as well which is a mild consolation.
I happened upon a few fellow hikers, a young married couple from the next town over at home, that were waiting on a ride to Philadelphia when I met up with them at a road crossing. My overwhelming feeling was that I was absolutely in the right place at the right time, that I should take this ride home for a day or two and really check out from the trail, that I need to recenter. After all, there still is so much to look forward to - the Delaware Water Gap, the Mohican Outdoor Center in Jerz, the Berkshires, the mighty Whites, the 100 Mile Wilderness...the elusive Katahdin. And I'm going to go ahead and say that life is still pretty damn good. I just know sometimes it takes stepping back and looking on the experience from a different place/perspective to remember this.
I've met some pretty amazing people that do some pretty cool stuff. You find a lot of folks out here who are just the types that make things happen for themselves - the travel, the cool jobs, the atypical life experiences...it's inspiring. The mountains and folks that live in the surrounding regions have been wonderful - more welcoming towards strangers than I imagined people could be these days (bah, what does 'these days' even mean?) I'd say that more than anything else, this hike has reminded me that at heart people are generally good, they are trusting, they are generous even when they have little, they want to leave you with a good feeling about the place they live, they want to help you connect to that place, they want to see the good in people too. Aside from that not-small life lesson, it's also been interesting to see how little you can actually live on. How attached I am to the tiny alcohol stove (thanks Hustler!). How the 'one's junk is another's treasure' concept functions so seamlessly in hiker boxes where people leave things they no longer need and they're picked up by others.
Yeah. Halfway.
Enough deep thoughts by Jack Handey. I leave you now with an NPR article on the AT that just popped up after they interviewed thru-hikers in Harpers Ferry a few weeks back aaaaaaand the Public Enemy song that's been running through my head when I scramble over PA rocks - Harder Than You Think. 'Cause, as with most things in life, if I'm gonna get through this damn thing...it's gonna be with the help of Flava Flav.
(sidenote: the young married couple in the video from the NPR article, Quixote & Panza, are the wonderful folks that offered me the ride home when I needed it...great people)
O'Governor Sanford, Where Art Thou
Thought I might as well throw out a 'typical day' of food, routine & miles for the folks at home in case you're actually interested:
* 6am, up with the sun. Before getting out of the ooold sleeping bag I briefly ponder what I may have to look forward to that day - a town? a swimming hole? an overlook? my last pack of pop tarts? just miles and miles in the green tunnel?
* Onto breakfast. As of late it's cereal of some sort of granola persuasion (with water instead of milk, oy) while I boil water with the alcohol stove for my instant coffee/hot chocolate caffeination concoction. Definitely worth a pause to enjoy the hot beverage. If I'm within a few days of leaving a town, I may be lucky enough to still have a banana or apple lying around. Fresh fruit is a novelty (and is heavy to carry). In case you're curious, here's a nutrition chart on whiteblaze that pretty much lists common backpacking foods - as far as what folks eat out here I've found it to be pretty dead-on. Greenlite does this interesting shake in a gatorade bottle of protein powder, powdered milk, cappuccino mix and carnation instant breakfast - chock full of 'get up and go' apparently.
* Pack up camp. Deflate the sleeping pad (always a process), get life together, go fill up on and treat the water from the spring, get my pack packed properly to distribute the weight, test the safety whistle, pop a quick sign of the cross, and away we go.
* It's ideal to knock out 10mi or so before taking a break but that depends on when you come upon the first shelter or what the terrain is like. Often we'll stop and camp right before a climb to save such good times for the morning legs. It's also nice to stop at shelters because there's a picnic table - something bout sitting down at a picnic table to spread your food out that makes you feel downright civilized. First snacks? Generally a cliff bar or the aforementioned poptarts - something to really give you that jolt. If it's a rough day I'll get another round of coffee going, just for good measure. Maybe knock out 3-4 more miles before lunch.
* Lunch!!! Lunch implies some sort of bread product (be it bagels, tortillas, english muffins, hamburger rolls) with cheese and/or peanut butter. Trail mix, dried fruit, something involving chocolate and or extremely processed sweets (really do eat a lot of crap out here...lots o'habits to kick before Maine). Maybe send off a signal with the old SPOT GPS messenger, write in the trail register, what have you. I'm not really big on napping in the middle of the day so I'm never apt to stop for too long.
* Moving right along. Maybe another 10mi to go which averages out to 3hrs and change of further hiking. Ponder where the stopping point will be for the eve, what I'm going to make for dinner, maybe put on some tunes for the final push. The afternoons have been getting a little hot and humid but as long as there aren't any long stretches in the sun it's not so bad - always a stream to stop and sit by for a few minutes or a cool breeze kicking up just when you need it.
* Dinnaaa!!! and stopping for the day. Always set up the sleeping situation first, whether it's tenting or sleeping in the shelter for the night with the mice. The 'main course', if you will, is usually a lipton rice side or a risotto or a trader joes precooked sorta thinger or a dehydrated pasta meal - anything that just requires boiling water (I'm a one-trick pony with cooking out there). Greenlite's into corn pasta which supposedly metabolizes really quick for high energy - I had never heard of it before but there are some hikers who swear by it. Sometimes there's a fire but often you're just too tired to want to put in the effort. Sometimes you hang a bear bag. Sometimes you couldn't care less about bears. (Though I'm pretty sure they're always watching...really). 'Hiker midnight' is 9pm and I'm usually not in bed too much later than that. Dreams are usually strange because I feel like I'm waking up here and there in the middle of the night when I sleep in the woods - that's just the way of it for me.
* Rinse and repeat.
Saturday, June 20, 2009
There's No Place Like Home
Round 2.
* So from Luray we had the rest of Shenandoah Nat'l Park to finish up - a few more waysides to hit up for blackberry milkshakes, a thousand more deer to trip over, a few more Skyline Drive crossings. Shenandoah was some pretty great hiking with all the distractions, milemarkers telling you where you are and how far you have to go (some of us enjoy that), wildlife and easy grade as far as the climbs and descents go...can't ask for much more.
* Front Royal was a pretty wonderful top off to Old Virginia with coin laundry, a stay at a quirky B&B, another ABC store (woot wooot!), lunch with Dad and Paula!, I mailed my lease and first month's rent up to Massachusetts...highly productive. The trail also went by the National Zoological Research Center or something of the like which apparently is affiliated with the National Zoo in DC. Greenlite's friend who lives in the area says he's convinced it's some sort of covert gov't operation in there - that cell phone service is all wonky anywhere near there, that nobody goes in or out...kind of like Wonka. We were on our toes as we walked by.
* The very end of the trail in Virginia is called the Roller Coaster - it's 13.5 miles of continuous 500-700ft ascents and descents. It suuuuuuuuuuuucked. There are no views at the top of your climb. There no flat spots. You're just dying to get out of Virginia and into sweet sweet Harpers Ferry. The trail maintainers in that area leave signs to mock you like 'welcome to the roller coaster bitchez...see you in WV if you make it.' Anyway...that's over.
* HARPERS FERRY!!! Walking into Harpers Ferry felt a wee bit like walking home. Seeing the canal path and train tracks that run straight to DC was very nostalgic for me and even MORE exciting were the visitors that awaited us there. Thanks to Jess and Susie for organizing a crew and thanks to all that came out to camp! Twas a wonderful, rainy, buggy, Jim Beam and BOones Farm-filled evening up at Huckleberry Hill campground on the C&O canal. All in all Harpers Ferry is one of the most beautiful places around at the confluence (my favorite word!) of the Shenandoah and Potomac Rivers and OH the history - visits from Jefferson, John Brown's uprising, Yankees and Rebels during the Civil War. There's also a nice outfitters there to stop in and switch out some gear. The woman that worked there was currently bemused by a few folks that had just been in there before us. Apparently some guy had just been in that had done a demonstration at an elementary school of being a 'frontier man' a la Daniel Boone. During the gun powder segment he accidentally 'blew himself and 3 children up'. No permanent damage was done apparently but it was quite the odd phrasing and her entertainment at this episode was muy interesante. I was sorry we had missed the recounting of the blowing up from the guy himself. Anywho, that was an aside.
* Spent a night in DC in the old apartment in Bristol House! It was odd to get a slice of the old life but very good to see some old friends and experience civilization.
Welp I have to get going though there's more to write. There's been a few more bears in my life, a lot of footstep, new shoes (thanks mom!) and a stop in Newtown Square as I previously told you. Time to get back on the road though out to Fayetteville, PA to get back to the trail. It's pouring. I don't want talk about it much. Miss everyone!! I really do. Peace a'pizza.
* So from Luray we had the rest of Shenandoah Nat'l Park to finish up - a few more waysides to hit up for blackberry milkshakes, a thousand more deer to trip over, a few more Skyline Drive crossings. Shenandoah was some pretty great hiking with all the distractions, milemarkers telling you where you are and how far you have to go (some of us enjoy that), wildlife and easy grade as far as the climbs and descents go...can't ask for much more.
* Front Royal was a pretty wonderful top off to Old Virginia with coin laundry, a stay at a quirky B&B, another ABC store (woot wooot!), lunch with Dad and Paula!, I mailed my lease and first month's rent up to Massachusetts...highly productive. The trail also went by the National Zoological Research Center or something of the like which apparently is affiliated with the National Zoo in DC. Greenlite's friend who lives in the area says he's convinced it's some sort of covert gov't operation in there - that cell phone service is all wonky anywhere near there, that nobody goes in or out...kind of like Wonka. We were on our toes as we walked by.
* The very end of the trail in Virginia is called the Roller Coaster - it's 13.5 miles of continuous 500-700ft ascents and descents. It suuuuuuuuuuuucked. There are no views at the top of your climb. There no flat spots. You're just dying to get out of Virginia and into sweet sweet Harpers Ferry. The trail maintainers in that area leave signs to mock you like 'welcome to the roller coaster bitchez...see you in WV if you make it.' Anyway...that's over.
* HARPERS FERRY!!! Walking into Harpers Ferry felt a wee bit like walking home. Seeing the canal path and train tracks that run straight to DC was very nostalgic for me and even MORE exciting were the visitors that awaited us there. Thanks to Jess and Susie for organizing a crew and thanks to all that came out to camp! Twas a wonderful, rainy, buggy, Jim Beam and BOones Farm-filled evening up at Huckleberry Hill campground on the C&O canal. All in all Harpers Ferry is one of the most beautiful places around at the confluence (my favorite word!) of the Shenandoah and Potomac Rivers and OH the history - visits from Jefferson, John Brown's uprising, Yankees and Rebels during the Civil War. There's also a nice outfitters there to stop in and switch out some gear. The woman that worked there was currently bemused by a few folks that had just been in there before us. Apparently some guy had just been in that had done a demonstration at an elementary school of being a 'frontier man' a la Daniel Boone. During the gun powder segment he accidentally 'blew himself and 3 children up'. No permanent damage was done apparently but it was quite the odd phrasing and her entertainment at this episode was muy interesante. I was sorry we had missed the recounting of the blowing up from the guy himself. Anywho, that was an aside.
* Spent a night in DC in the old apartment in Bristol House! It was odd to get a slice of the old life but very good to see some old friends and experience civilization.
Welp I have to get going though there's more to write. There's been a few more bears in my life, a lot of footstep, new shoes (thanks mom!) and a stop in Newtown Square as I previously told you. Time to get back on the road though out to Fayetteville, PA to get back to the trail. It's pouring. I don't want talk about it much. Miss everyone!! I really do. Peace a'pizza.
Mason-Dixon
Greetings greetings and sorry it's been a few weeks here. Since I last updated I've crossed over from 'Appalatcha' into 'Appalaysha' as I crossed the MD-PA border and hit the North.
I've turned 25.
I've experimented with trying to make buttermilk biscuits with an alcohol burning stove.
I've lost a sock that was near and dear to m'heart.
It's rained.
Fireflies have come out.
I met a SouthBounder who genuinely thinks he's capable of sorcery.
I learned that I was the 332nd thru-hiker to reach Harpers Ferry, WV this year and have their picture taken for the books at the Appalachian Trail Conservancy Visitors Center. I have no idea what this number actually means to me, but Harpers Ferry - at mile 1013 - is the psychological halfway point and apparently only 50% of us will reach Maine from here.
Much more to write but I'm actually in good old Newtown Square, PA right now taking a much needed 24hr break from trail life and I have pancakes to tend to. So I'll get back to the blog later today.
I've turned 25.
I've experimented with trying to make buttermilk biscuits with an alcohol burning stove.
I've lost a sock that was near and dear to m'heart.
It's rained.
Fireflies have come out.
I met a SouthBounder who genuinely thinks he's capable of sorcery.
I learned that I was the 332nd thru-hiker to reach Harpers Ferry, WV this year and have their picture taken for the books at the Appalachian Trail Conservancy Visitors Center. I have no idea what this number actually means to me, but Harpers Ferry - at mile 1013 - is the psychological halfway point and apparently only 50% of us will reach Maine from here.
Much more to write but I'm actually in good old Newtown Square, PA right now taking a much needed 24hr break from trail life and I have pancakes to tend to. So I'll get back to the blog later today.
Tuesday, June 9, 2009
Drop Your Reds, Drop Your Greens and Blues
Hunkering down for another night in Luray, VA - home of the world(Virginia)wide famous Luray Caverns, the recently renovated and beeeee-autiful Mimslyn Inn and various antique stores and home cookin' establishments. Really can't complain - but back to the past few days in and out of Shenandoah:
* Bears. Lots of them. Baby bears, Mama bears, Papa bears, Sister bears, Brother bears, scaredy bears. On the road, on the trail, having picnics, climbing trees - but still generally fleeing from you upon sight. So bears and I are buddies these days. I've even worked the courage up to try to reach for my camera instead of running away (which, again, is what you're not supposed to do). Unfortunately I haven't been fast enough on the camera just yet. Fear not though, more bears to come...
* Deer. More specifically - fawns. Saw three fawns today near Skyline Drive and HOLY CRAP are they adorable. They're all wobbly on their legs, still have their spots and seriously are the cutest things I've ever seen. Putting Bambi back on the 'to watch' list when I return to society.
* Skunks. Copperheads. Saw one of each. Skunks, cute from a comfortable distance. Copperheads, terrifying. Snakes suck. It's been a pretty sweet week as far as wildlife goes though.
* Hikin' on the full moon. A fellow hiker planted a little idea in our head a few days back about seeing how far you could hike in 24 hrs under the full moon we had two nights ago. Turned out to be 51 miles after starting out from Blackrock Spring Hut at 8:30am to the Skyland Resort (read: breakfast!!) at 8:30am the next morning - not that there weren't breaks and an hour and a half nap from 3:30-5AM on the bathroom floor at a campground we passed right next to the trail. Also turns out dawn is a real adrenaline rush when you think you're not going to make it any further. While I generally have been less than a fan of the woods at night over the years, it was actually a pretty cool experience. Nothing like catching a glowing pair of green eyes with your headlamp off to the left of the trail...following you. While I tended to imagine the worst, I later on realized these were deer. Some other hikers who attempted the same thing that night actually saw a bobcat and stepped on a rattler during their own little adventure (insert shiver up your spine here). Another weird/cool moment was at a crossing of Skyline Drive where the trail emerges into this big meadow under the full moon with a fairly large old graveyard right across the way. At another point we were on the side of the ridge with the lights of Luray and other towns in the valley sprawled out below. Maybe some of these were hallucinations - who knows. Either way, it was a solid night.
* To any DC folks reading - I walked by Pocosin Cabin, Rock Spring Cabin and the Corbin Cabin trail (like hell I was going to walk all the way down from the ridge to the holler) over the past couple days. If I closed my eyes I could almost see Susie climbing a rock, Walker throwing an ax, Sean almost falling off a cliff, Jess opening a fresh box of wine, Lydia manning the wood stove, what have you. It was a wonderful feeling. Also on a long exploratory drive with Greenlite's parents who are visiting the trail right now, we went by Woodstock Tower Rd (read: A-FRAME!) but on the other side of the ridge. Another familiar sight.
* Gosh, what else. Pretty views, relatively gentle hiking compared to earlier parts of the trail, and getting ready for Virginia's swan song. I'm West Virginia bound. In two days I'm meeting Dad in Front Royal and can't wait!!! In 9 days I hit a quarter-century. Whoa. Will my joints start falling apart? Will I start reminiscing about the '90s? Did anybody see Zack Morris on Jimmy Fallon the other night?? (Thanks Cliff...really.) On that note, laaaters.
* Bears. Lots of them. Baby bears, Mama bears, Papa bears, Sister bears, Brother bears, scaredy bears. On the road, on the trail, having picnics, climbing trees - but still generally fleeing from you upon sight. So bears and I are buddies these days. I've even worked the courage up to try to reach for my camera instead of running away (which, again, is what you're not supposed to do). Unfortunately I haven't been fast enough on the camera just yet. Fear not though, more bears to come...
* Deer. More specifically - fawns. Saw three fawns today near Skyline Drive and HOLY CRAP are they adorable. They're all wobbly on their legs, still have their spots and seriously are the cutest things I've ever seen. Putting Bambi back on the 'to watch' list when I return to society.
* Skunks. Copperheads. Saw one of each. Skunks, cute from a comfortable distance. Copperheads, terrifying. Snakes suck. It's been a pretty sweet week as far as wildlife goes though.
* Hikin' on the full moon. A fellow hiker planted a little idea in our head a few days back about seeing how far you could hike in 24 hrs under the full moon we had two nights ago. Turned out to be 51 miles after starting out from Blackrock Spring Hut at 8:30am to the Skyland Resort (read: breakfast!!) at 8:30am the next morning - not that there weren't breaks and an hour and a half nap from 3:30-5AM on the bathroom floor at a campground we passed right next to the trail. Also turns out dawn is a real adrenaline rush when you think you're not going to make it any further. While I generally have been less than a fan of the woods at night over the years, it was actually a pretty cool experience. Nothing like catching a glowing pair of green eyes with your headlamp off to the left of the trail...following you. While I tended to imagine the worst, I later on realized these were deer. Some other hikers who attempted the same thing that night actually saw a bobcat and stepped on a rattler during their own little adventure (insert shiver up your spine here). Another weird/cool moment was at a crossing of Skyline Drive where the trail emerges into this big meadow under the full moon with a fairly large old graveyard right across the way. At another point we were on the side of the ridge with the lights of Luray and other towns in the valley sprawled out below. Maybe some of these were hallucinations - who knows. Either way, it was a solid night.
* To any DC folks reading - I walked by Pocosin Cabin, Rock Spring Cabin and the Corbin Cabin trail (like hell I was going to walk all the way down from the ridge to the holler) over the past couple days. If I closed my eyes I could almost see Susie climbing a rock, Walker throwing an ax, Sean almost falling off a cliff, Jess opening a fresh box of wine, Lydia manning the wood stove, what have you. It was a wonderful feeling. Also on a long exploratory drive with Greenlite's parents who are visiting the trail right now, we went by Woodstock Tower Rd (read: A-FRAME!) but on the other side of the ridge. Another familiar sight.
* Gosh, what else. Pretty views, relatively gentle hiking compared to earlier parts of the trail, and getting ready for Virginia's swan song. I'm West Virginia bound. In two days I'm meeting Dad in Front Royal and can't wait!!! In 9 days I hit a quarter-century. Whoa. Will my joints start falling apart? Will I start reminiscing about the '90s? Did anybody see Zack Morris on Jimmy Fallon the other night?? (Thanks Cliff...really.) On that note, laaaters.
Saturday, June 6, 2009
Hollers and Waysides
Welp, this morning I'll be heading into Shenandoah Nat'l Park from Rockfish Gap, where the Blue Ridge Parkway ends and Skyline Drive begins. Currently stopped off in Waynesboro, VA 5mi west of Rockfish Gap where the Grace Lutheran Church runs a wonderful hiker hostel in their basement...really. They have showers with clean towels, cots you can set up in a big room downstairs, a big screen TV, computers, snacks, COFFEE, CEREAL WITH WHOLE MILK...I'm in Lutheran heaven right now - all donation-based. Otherwise the 'Boro has been a wonderful stop-off to briefly get out of the rain.
Rain. Thankfully I got a taste of what it would be like during my freshman DOC hiking trip where it poured most of the time. It generally brings a whole new world of strange blisters, pruned hands, shelters that are full and mighty slippery rocks. I used to think that when the birds started chirping again the clouds were about to break but I'm pretty sure birds are full of sh*t these days. Anywho, the weather's supposed to take a turn for the better these next few days and I'm pretty sure someone up there will give me clear (blue?) skies for Shenandoah so I'm a'ready to stop whining.
SNP - Skyline Drive stretches for about 100 miles from Rockfish Gap (not too far from Charlottesville) to Front Royal, VA and winds atop the ridgeline with beautiful overlooks over the surrounding farmlands and neighboring ridges. The trail will cross Skyline maaany many times over the next 4-5 days or so and the park is famous for its waysides, tourists and 'thousand-mile stares' from the thru-hikers - beginning the final push to get through Virginia. I don't even really know what a wayside means just yet but someone told me it means food so I'm down. And as I've said a million times I'm mighty excited to finally see some familiar territory and inch back towards the Mason-Dixon Line. The South has been really amazing and the people have been so wonderful, but it's high time I got excited about moving to New England so I think I'm walking in the right direction. I leave you with a few links and videos this mornin'.
Interactive AT Map from the Appalachian Trail Conservancy
Whiteblaze.net - online community of AT enthusiasts
A youtube vid of Roscoe Holcomb playing a few songs on Pete Seeger's Rainbow Quest in the '60s. An oldtime banjo legend.
Enjoooy the weekend and Stephanie Madison hope you had a wonderful birfday!!
Rain. Thankfully I got a taste of what it would be like during my freshman DOC hiking trip where it poured most of the time. It generally brings a whole new world of strange blisters, pruned hands, shelters that are full and mighty slippery rocks. I used to think that when the birds started chirping again the clouds were about to break but I'm pretty sure birds are full of sh*t these days. Anywho, the weather's supposed to take a turn for the better these next few days and I'm pretty sure someone up there will give me clear (blue?) skies for Shenandoah so I'm a'ready to stop whining.
SNP - Skyline Drive stretches for about 100 miles from Rockfish Gap (not too far from Charlottesville) to Front Royal, VA and winds atop the ridgeline with beautiful overlooks over the surrounding farmlands and neighboring ridges. The trail will cross Skyline maaany many times over the next 4-5 days or so and the park is famous for its waysides, tourists and 'thousand-mile stares' from the thru-hikers - beginning the final push to get through Virginia. I don't even really know what a wayside means just yet but someone told me it means food so I'm down. And as I've said a million times I'm mighty excited to finally see some familiar territory and inch back towards the Mason-Dixon Line. The South has been really amazing and the people have been so wonderful, but it's high time I got excited about moving to New England so I think I'm walking in the right direction. I leave you with a few links and videos this mornin'.
Interactive AT Map from the Appalachian Trail Conservancy
Whiteblaze.net - online community of AT enthusiasts
A youtube vid of Roscoe Holcomb playing a few songs on Pete Seeger's Rainbow Quest in the '60s. An oldtime banjo legend.
Enjoooy the weekend and Stephanie Madison hope you had a wonderful birfday!!
Thursday, June 4, 2009
They Call It That Good Old Mountain Dew
Mmmmmmshowers. Stopped last night at the Dutch Haus Hostel in Montibello, VA, which proudly boasts 3 paved roads. TWO DAYS FROM SHENANDOAH!!! Toot toot, beep beep. Actually crossing the Blue Ridge Parkway on and off for the past week has been pretty cool because it reminds me so much of Skyline Drive - and it was like I could finally see a paved road that would take me straight up North to familiar territory. Pretty sure they were both built around the same time by the CCC in the mid-30s. Also heard that the creation of the Blue Ridge Parkway was the hot button issue that caused the two main visionaries/engineers of the AT - Benton MacKaye and Milton Avery - to never speak again.
So the going's been pretty tough over the past few days with the 90 degree heat and humidity. The 3000 ft climb up from the James River was pretty killer and while I usually love a good exposed ridge, that sun really sucks the life/will to go on out of you. They say your first month is the real physical challenge and then it really becomes a mental game - particularly in Virginia with its 600+ mi of trail. In other news though, I hit 800 miles yesterday and am pretty pumped for all the waysides in Shenandoah. Life ain't bad.
Few folks on the trail I've met over the past week. It was pretty cool to meet Windbreaker, a hiker a few years younger than me from outside of Asheville, NC that carries and plays a 2lb banjer. He went to Appalachian State in Boone, NC and said he took an Appalachian Studies course which segwayed into an Oldtime Music course which inspired him to take up clawhammer banjo. Nothing like reaching McAfee's Knob outside of Catawba, VA right after sunrise which is probably the best view I've seen yet on the trail and having Windbreaker bust out a morning song on the 'jo. Think I put a few pics up on facebook of the knob. He also makes banjos so I'm pondering trading up for one of his once I get back to the real world. Anywho it was a wee bit inspiring on the banjo front - think I'm going to check out where the Oldtime jams are when I get up to Amherst this fall.
Ahhh let's see...otherwise things are generally peachy. Still caffeinating each morning and dodging bears. Actually I have yet to see a bear in awhile but turns out the snakes are starting to kick in which kinda kills me. Thus far I've only seen black snakes but I almost stepped on a 5ft-er or so yesterday which made me scream - nothing of the poisonous persuasion but those rattlers and copperheads are out there. Sweet sweet Virginia. Alright I think I should get going but miss everyone! Ooh and here are a few links to fellow hikers trail journals that have been going my way in case you're interested:
Greenlite
Buckeye
Flex
Matt from DC
I'm outta here.
So the going's been pretty tough over the past few days with the 90 degree heat and humidity. The 3000 ft climb up from the James River was pretty killer and while I usually love a good exposed ridge, that sun really sucks the life/will to go on out of you. They say your first month is the real physical challenge and then it really becomes a mental game - particularly in Virginia with its 600+ mi of trail. In other news though, I hit 800 miles yesterday and am pretty pumped for all the waysides in Shenandoah. Life ain't bad.
Few folks on the trail I've met over the past week. It was pretty cool to meet Windbreaker, a hiker a few years younger than me from outside of Asheville, NC that carries and plays a 2lb banjer. He went to Appalachian State in Boone, NC and said he took an Appalachian Studies course which segwayed into an Oldtime Music course which inspired him to take up clawhammer banjo. Nothing like reaching McAfee's Knob outside of Catawba, VA right after sunrise which is probably the best view I've seen yet on the trail and having Windbreaker bust out a morning song on the 'jo. Think I put a few pics up on facebook of the knob. He also makes banjos so I'm pondering trading up for one of his once I get back to the real world. Anywho it was a wee bit inspiring on the banjo front - think I'm going to check out where the Oldtime jams are when I get up to Amherst this fall.
Ahhh let's see...otherwise things are generally peachy. Still caffeinating each morning and dodging bears. Actually I have yet to see a bear in awhile but turns out the snakes are starting to kick in which kinda kills me. Thus far I've only seen black snakes but I almost stepped on a 5ft-er or so yesterday which made me scream - nothing of the poisonous persuasion but those rattlers and copperheads are out there. Sweet sweet Virginia. Alright I think I should get going but miss everyone! Ooh and here are a few links to fellow hikers trail journals that have been going my way in case you're interested:
Greenlite
Buckeye
Flex
Matt from DC
I'm outta here.
Tuesday, June 2, 2009
Thanks Fies, More Photatoes
Quick stop in Glasgow, VA this morning near Natural Bridge to check the oooole email and upload some more pics! You can check'em out on facebook hopefull at this link: http://www.facebook.com/home.php#/album.php?aid=2077191&id=501939&page=2
Special thanks to Clare for posting about her time out here. She pretty much achieved trail angel status in no time with the beer and rainbow rice krispie treats. As for progress - getting mighty close to Rockfish Gap and the southern end of Shenandoah. Have been criss-crossing the Blue Ridge Parkway for the past few days and it's been gorgeous. Much more to report soon but uploading the photos has sucked up my internet time at this fine library. Will update again Waynesboro, VA. VERY MUCH looking forward to hopefully seeing Dad up near Front Royal and some DC folks up near Harpers Ferry!!! Makes it much much easier to push the big miles. Okay, time to hit the trail.
Special thanks to Clare for posting about her time out here. She pretty much achieved trail angel status in no time with the beer and rainbow rice krispie treats. As for progress - getting mighty close to Rockfish Gap and the southern end of Shenandoah. Have been criss-crossing the Blue Ridge Parkway for the past few days and it's been gorgeous. Much more to report soon but uploading the photos has sucked up my internet time at this fine library. Will update again Waynesboro, VA. VERY MUCH looking forward to hopefully seeing Dad up near Front Royal and some DC folks up near Harpers Ferry!!! Makes it much much easier to push the big miles. Okay, time to hit the trail.
Saturday, May 30, 2009
In Her Element
posted by Clare Fieseler
After living with Kim for the two year’s after college, I was blessed enough to see Kim’s determination to hike the AT flourish from an inclination to an outright resolution. Kinda like Banjos, Marathons, and Hummus. (Ironically, Hummus has given her the most difficulty.) I could see it progress from the day we all first moved into Fort Bacon in Dupont Circle. The more she saw of the mountains west of our little city apartment, the more I saw her point her attention to all things Appalachian. The music. The coal culture. The confluences. She became hooked. Kim was Googling “mountain top mining” more than the average 23-year-old Googled “brad-gelina.” Through a few weekend trips out to Shenandoah National Park and Harper’s Ferry, Kim and I brushed up with some strange folk, random occurrences, and just quirky encounters with a culture that is simpler, slower, and more in touch with the great natural beauty around. Perhaps that’s why is seems quirky and strange at first. Your time out in the “sticks” goes from entertaining to just gosh darn preferable to anything city-life can offer.
Kim is in her element – the Appalachian element. I’ve seen it with my own eyes. On May 8th, I drove out to Roan Mountain, TN from my home in Durham, NC. I pulled up late in the evening (after a few detours in bustling Boone,NC) to a gorgeous rehabbed barn/ hiker lodge along a babbling brook, where horse where grazing right next to the entrance. Is this Heaven? No. It’s Tennessee.
Upon seeing Kim - dirty, wet, and rugged - I couldn’t help but give her a big bear hug. She smelt better than I expected. Not roses, but not shabby for a thru-hiker. I was soon introduced to a room of mostly 40 or 50 year old mean with names like Bear Bait and Tibet. For trail magic – I had brought Kim her favorite – Rainbow Rice Krispie Treats and a thirty pack of Miller Lite. The community of thru-hikers are so generous with the few luxuries they are able to get (ie. brownies or bandaids). So no beer was wasted that first night, but the marshmellowy goodness was stored for trail fuel. As I met some of Kim’s trail friends, I was forced to call her by her trial name Blue Sky. Awkward at first, I grew to love it.
I had forgotten a tent, so Kim let me sleep in her one-man tent through the rainy night. It was cozy, and I think we both kinda liked the shared space. It was like old times, minus a temporary wall. At about 3:30am that night I woke up to Kim scrambling over me to get out the tent. Then came the heaves. And the splat. Oh no. Kim got deathly ill with what could only be described by the other hikers as “thru-hiker’s flu.” At least no swine were involved. Some Gatorade, Peptobismal, and Michael J. Fox movies later in the B&B/Barn, Kim was still feeling ill but stronger. She wanted to get back on the trail, despite my hesitations. She was a champ and hiked in 4 miles late that afternoon after taking all morning to recuperate. We collapsed exhausted (me from my own bad shape!) on a side ATV path away just off the main white blazes. Some chicken noodle soup and peanut butter on rolls got the job done. And we climbed into snug our tent at 8pm for bed, listening to strong winds blow over the clouded Tennessee Hills.
That was the first night in about a year where I didn’t here a single thing all night but the birds and the wind.
Kim woke up the next morning with a big smile on her face, puke-free mentality, and an extra large spoonful of instant coffee. With Oatmeal-full bellies we began our 20 mile day hike. There was a fabled house up the trail where an all-day trail magic (read: free for thru-hikers!) BBQ was happening. We had to reach it by 7pm if we wanted to partake.
Boy, did I overestimate my own lack of stamina due to graduate-student neglect. At first, I was just enjoying the natural beauty of the area and the stories Kim was telling me about the other thru-hikers she had met. But at about mile 13 I was cursing the whole expedition and needed assistance from Kim’s hiking poles. I was awed by the ease at which Kim tramps 10, 20, sometimes 30 miles each day. Blue Sky is known as one of the fastest hikers on the trail. Multiple other hikers told me so. Our little Kim. I couldn’t believe it.
I’ll tell you what. She’s tough as nails, folks. TOUGH AS NAILS.
By mile 18 I was feeling better. Chicken chili, dark chocolate, and a gradual decline into a beautiful fern gully restored my senses and my will to go on. We reached the trail magic house (a house just off the trail where Slow Train, a former thru-hiker, lives). Heapings of pasta, brownies, and fruit to refueled us. I was able to meet even more of Blue Sky’s friends, fellow hikers, past hikers, and plain old AT enthusiasts. Each person I met talked about the beauty and burdens of life on the trail. The common theme was a sense of respect not just for Katahdin, but for the trail in general and what it represents to each hiker.
That next morning I drove back to NC and set off for Belize 72 hour later to collect data for my master’s project. Most people may consider the coconut lined beaches here “paradise” but I’d say the Tennessee Hills put up a good fight for that title. Yesterday, I saw some tourist reading Bill Bryson’s “A Walk in the Woods” (an account of the author attempting to thru-hike) and I was inspired to write this blog post.
The AT embodies the rugged, wild, and community-based spirit of the Appalachia region. Kim seems to have become the mayor of this dirt path and the family of boots that tramp along it. Kim’s interactions with the other thru-hikers is genuine and forthright. Ask anyone on the trail and they’ll know Blue Sky. They’ll treat you as family simply for being her companion. As for Kim herself: She’s determined more than ever to finish the trail in August. But more than this determination – I think she’s devoted to simply experiencing the Trail for all its worth. Everything that is NEW and CHALLENGING is on her agenda. Hummus bowls nationwide watch out.
Kim, I’m so proud of you. Keep chugging. I’ll be at High Point, NJ waiting and serving as your official state ambassador.
After living with Kim for the two year’s after college, I was blessed enough to see Kim’s determination to hike the AT flourish from an inclination to an outright resolution. Kinda like Banjos, Marathons, and Hummus. (Ironically, Hummus has given her the most difficulty.) I could see it progress from the day we all first moved into Fort Bacon in Dupont Circle. The more she saw of the mountains west of our little city apartment, the more I saw her point her attention to all things Appalachian. The music. The coal culture. The confluences. She became hooked. Kim was Googling “mountain top mining” more than the average 23-year-old Googled “brad-gelina.” Through a few weekend trips out to Shenandoah National Park and Harper’s Ferry, Kim and I brushed up with some strange folk, random occurrences, and just quirky encounters with a culture that is simpler, slower, and more in touch with the great natural beauty around. Perhaps that’s why is seems quirky and strange at first. Your time out in the “sticks” goes from entertaining to just gosh darn preferable to anything city-life can offer.
Kim is in her element – the Appalachian element. I’ve seen it with my own eyes. On May 8th, I drove out to Roan Mountain, TN from my home in Durham, NC. I pulled up late in the evening (after a few detours in bustling Boone,NC) to a gorgeous rehabbed barn/ hiker lodge along a babbling brook, where horse where grazing right next to the entrance. Is this Heaven? No. It’s Tennessee.
Upon seeing Kim - dirty, wet, and rugged - I couldn’t help but give her a big bear hug. She smelt better than I expected. Not roses, but not shabby for a thru-hiker. I was soon introduced to a room of mostly 40 or 50 year old mean with names like Bear Bait and Tibet. For trail magic – I had brought Kim her favorite – Rainbow Rice Krispie Treats and a thirty pack of Miller Lite. The community of thru-hikers are so generous with the few luxuries they are able to get (ie. brownies or bandaids). So no beer was wasted that first night, but the marshmellowy goodness was stored for trail fuel. As I met some of Kim’s trail friends, I was forced to call her by her trial name Blue Sky. Awkward at first, I grew to love it.
I had forgotten a tent, so Kim let me sleep in her one-man tent through the rainy night. It was cozy, and I think we both kinda liked the shared space. It was like old times, minus a temporary wall. At about 3:30am that night I woke up to Kim scrambling over me to get out the tent. Then came the heaves. And the splat. Oh no. Kim got deathly ill with what could only be described by the other hikers as “thru-hiker’s flu.” At least no swine were involved. Some Gatorade, Peptobismal, and Michael J. Fox movies later in the B&B/Barn, Kim was still feeling ill but stronger. She wanted to get back on the trail, despite my hesitations. She was a champ and hiked in 4 miles late that afternoon after taking all morning to recuperate. We collapsed exhausted (me from my own bad shape!) on a side ATV path away just off the main white blazes. Some chicken noodle soup and peanut butter on rolls got the job done. And we climbed into snug our tent at 8pm for bed, listening to strong winds blow over the clouded Tennessee Hills.
That was the first night in about a year where I didn’t here a single thing all night but the birds and the wind.
Kim woke up the next morning with a big smile on her face, puke-free mentality, and an extra large spoonful of instant coffee. With Oatmeal-full bellies we began our 20 mile day hike. There was a fabled house up the trail where an all-day trail magic (read: free for thru-hikers!) BBQ was happening. We had to reach it by 7pm if we wanted to partake.
Boy, did I overestimate my own lack of stamina due to graduate-student neglect. At first, I was just enjoying the natural beauty of the area and the stories Kim was telling me about the other thru-hikers she had met. But at about mile 13 I was cursing the whole expedition and needed assistance from Kim’s hiking poles. I was awed by the ease at which Kim tramps 10, 20, sometimes 30 miles each day. Blue Sky is known as one of the fastest hikers on the trail. Multiple other hikers told me so. Our little Kim. I couldn’t believe it.
I’ll tell you what. She’s tough as nails, folks. TOUGH AS NAILS.
By mile 18 I was feeling better. Chicken chili, dark chocolate, and a gradual decline into a beautiful fern gully restored my senses and my will to go on. We reached the trail magic house (a house just off the trail where Slow Train, a former thru-hiker, lives). Heapings of pasta, brownies, and fruit to refueled us. I was able to meet even more of Blue Sky’s friends, fellow hikers, past hikers, and plain old AT enthusiasts. Each person I met talked about the beauty and burdens of life on the trail. The common theme was a sense of respect not just for Katahdin, but for the trail in general and what it represents to each hiker.
That next morning I drove back to NC and set off for Belize 72 hour later to collect data for my master’s project. Most people may consider the coconut lined beaches here “paradise” but I’d say the Tennessee Hills put up a good fight for that title. Yesterday, I saw some tourist reading Bill Bryson’s “A Walk in the Woods” (an account of the author attempting to thru-hike) and I was inspired to write this blog post.
The AT embodies the rugged, wild, and community-based spirit of the Appalachia region. Kim seems to have become the mayor of this dirt path and the family of boots that tramp along it. Kim’s interactions with the other thru-hikers is genuine and forthright. Ask anyone on the trail and they’ll know Blue Sky. They’ll treat you as family simply for being her companion. As for Kim herself: She’s determined more than ever to finish the trail in August. But more than this determination – I think she’s devoted to simply experiencing the Trail for all its worth. Everything that is NEW and CHALLENGING is on her agenda. Hummus bowls nationwide watch out.
Kim, I’m so proud of you. Keep chugging. I’ll be at High Point, NJ waiting and serving as your official state ambassador.
Tuesday, May 26, 2009
Home Is Where You Hang Your Bearbag
So today has turned into a 'zero day' in Pearisburg, VA since it's pouring rain with thunderstorms expected this afternoon. Yeah, wimpy...but I think my feet will very much appreciate the recovery as a pinky toe blister has been making life rather difficult these past few days. Yeah, pinky toe - the most unassuming and useless of the toes. But anywho - more blog!!!
* At a restaurant in Atkins, VA a few days back the only sign at the register was about a gun rack for sale. I almost cracked a smile. I also almost talked myself into needing a gun rack. (Wayne's World reference)
* Do not accidentally use white heat instead of denatured alcohol in your soda can stove if you do not want to start forest fires or lose armhair.
* Bland, VA lives up to its good name.
* I'm now carrying a bible - I have yet to open it. I'm thinkin maybe tomorrow.
* Lingo. "Purists" - those who stick to the trail and make sure they hit every white blaze. I think I'm falling into this camp. "Blue-blazers" - take short cuts on blue blazed trails to spots further up the AT or take alternate routes just to check out some point of interest - other peaks, swimming holes, Wawas, etc. "Aqua-blazers" - hop on a canoe or kayak on the Shenandoah River which parallels the trail for awhile to knock out some miles afloat instead of on foot. Tempting. "Pink-blazers" - AT equivalent of skirt-chasers. Their mileage and or routes dependent on those of the scarce female population out here. "Yellow-blazers" - get rides everywhere. Clever clever stuff.
* Trail names. Some people choose their own, most people aquire them. There are at least 3 Freebirds, One Steps, Dreamcatchers and Hatchets out here. Some of my favorites:
Thunderpants and SIS: Young married couple. He has rampant gas and she "Suffers In Silence".
Wimbledon: Hikes with sweat/headband and strongly resembles Richie Tenenbaum.
Smiletrain: Some people would describe him as "negative" - he generally reminds me of a crotchety old man. He found a bracelet on top of Clingman's Dome and put it on saying he was going to take it to Maine for kicks. Three days later he realized it says Smiletrain on it. Appropriate.
Moontower: Looks just like Slater from Dazed and Confused.
Yeah I can't remember any other good ones at the moment. Always blank when I hit these computers. Back to idling around Pearisburg. If you have any odd questions about stuff out here leave'em in comments and I'll answer!
* At a restaurant in Atkins, VA a few days back the only sign at the register was about a gun rack for sale. I almost cracked a smile. I also almost talked myself into needing a gun rack. (Wayne's World reference)
* Do not accidentally use white heat instead of denatured alcohol in your soda can stove if you do not want to start forest fires or lose armhair.
* Bland, VA lives up to its good name.
* I'm now carrying a bible - I have yet to open it. I'm thinkin maybe tomorrow.
* Lingo. "Purists" - those who stick to the trail and make sure they hit every white blaze. I think I'm falling into this camp. "Blue-blazers" - take short cuts on blue blazed trails to spots further up the AT or take alternate routes just to check out some point of interest - other peaks, swimming holes, Wawas, etc. "Aqua-blazers" - hop on a canoe or kayak on the Shenandoah River which parallels the trail for awhile to knock out some miles afloat instead of on foot. Tempting. "Pink-blazers" - AT equivalent of skirt-chasers. Their mileage and or routes dependent on those of the scarce female population out here. "Yellow-blazers" - get rides everywhere. Clever clever stuff.
* Trail names. Some people choose their own, most people aquire them. There are at least 3 Freebirds, One Steps, Dreamcatchers and Hatchets out here. Some of my favorites:
Thunderpants and SIS: Young married couple. He has rampant gas and she "Suffers In Silence".
Wimbledon: Hikes with sweat/headband and strongly resembles Richie Tenenbaum.
Smiletrain: Some people would describe him as "negative" - he generally reminds me of a crotchety old man. He found a bracelet on top of Clingman's Dome and put it on saying he was going to take it to Maine for kicks. Three days later he realized it says Smiletrain on it. Appropriate.
Moontower: Looks just like Slater from Dazed and Confused.
Yeah I can't remember any other good ones at the moment. Always blank when I hit these computers. Back to idling around Pearisburg. If you have any odd questions about stuff out here leave'em in comments and I'll answer!
40 Miles From Denver
Hello hello and greetings from the downtown metropolis of Pearisburg, Virginia on the New River. Looks like I'll be heading into a few days o'rain from here but otherwise everything is in good working order. Let's do this in bullet format:
* PONIES!!!! Grayson Highlands State Park just north of Damascus has some pretty aggro, yet adorable, wild ponies. They're pretty accustomed to hikers rolling through at this point so they go straight for your foodbag. They also must be accustomed to hikers trying to hop on and ride them because when a friend did so, it ran straight for where there was barbed wire strung 4 ft off the ground to try to clothesline him. Cute ponies. Pics soon.
* More magic. One magical Saturday morning we came upon a road crossing with three people waiting by some SUVs asking us if we wanted a hot meal. Turns out they're from ATOM, the Appalachian Trail Outreach Ministry of the Methodist Church. If I were to ever die a death from kindness, it would be surrounded by these people. They took us to the local church a mile away where they sat us down at a long table and shoved food, coffee & OJ in our faces for an hour - pancakes, sausage, bread pudding, bananas, cookies, apple sauce, biscuits, grits, gravy - it was pretty serious. The group said they used to do similar trips to do outreach for the church in Mexico but they decided to switch to ATOM. Apparently in the New World Order, us hiker folk are on the level with Mexicans. I like this.
* Continuation of magic. We got back to the trail after the church only to find another set up a half mile down the road doing hot dogs, chili, ice cream, etc. Two guys - Stumblefoot and Insomniac - who had section hiked the whole trail over 10 years while full-time coal miners in Eastern WV, decided they wanted to pay back all the favors they received while hiking by throwing a hiker feed on the trail. They said they had gotten so many things from people while out there, but never money - which is something I think is pretty cool about being out here. Insomniac had a sweet tat on his arm (which was no small arm) which was a map of the whole trail. Pics to come, yet again.
* Welp, lots more has happened. Blisters have kicked up, saw a tiny tiny bear cup climbing a tree (momentarily 'awww'ing until I realized it was time to get the heeeelll outta there before Mama Bear came back), and in the next week or so I'll be getting into driving range of DC so come visit meeeee!!!!! See how funky I smell, how cut up my shins are, and the sweet poison ivy I will have acquired by then.
Okay, more to come soon. Missing everyone!
* PONIES!!!! Grayson Highlands State Park just north of Damascus has some pretty aggro, yet adorable, wild ponies. They're pretty accustomed to hikers rolling through at this point so they go straight for your foodbag. They also must be accustomed to hikers trying to hop on and ride them because when a friend did so, it ran straight for where there was barbed wire strung 4 ft off the ground to try to clothesline him. Cute ponies. Pics soon.
* More magic. One magical Saturday morning we came upon a road crossing with three people waiting by some SUVs asking us if we wanted a hot meal. Turns out they're from ATOM, the Appalachian Trail Outreach Ministry of the Methodist Church. If I were to ever die a death from kindness, it would be surrounded by these people. They took us to the local church a mile away where they sat us down at a long table and shoved food, coffee & OJ in our faces for an hour - pancakes, sausage, bread pudding, bananas, cookies, apple sauce, biscuits, grits, gravy - it was pretty serious. The group said they used to do similar trips to do outreach for the church in Mexico but they decided to switch to ATOM. Apparently in the New World Order, us hiker folk are on the level with Mexicans. I like this.
* Continuation of magic. We got back to the trail after the church only to find another set up a half mile down the road doing hot dogs, chili, ice cream, etc. Two guys - Stumblefoot and Insomniac - who had section hiked the whole trail over 10 years while full-time coal miners in Eastern WV, decided they wanted to pay back all the favors they received while hiking by throwing a hiker feed on the trail. They said they had gotten so many things from people while out there, but never money - which is something I think is pretty cool about being out here. Insomniac had a sweet tat on his arm (which was no small arm) which was a map of the whole trail. Pics to come, yet again.
* Welp, lots more has happened. Blisters have kicked up, saw a tiny tiny bear cup climbing a tree (momentarily 'awww'ing until I realized it was time to get the heeeelll outta there before Mama Bear came back), and in the next week or so I'll be getting into driving range of DC so come visit meeeee!!!!! See how funky I smell, how cut up my shins are, and the sweet poison ivy I will have acquired by then.
Okay, more to come soon. Missing everyone!
Tuesday, May 19, 2009
Roan Mountain High
Mom, I'm alive! Currently back in Hampton, TN right now after finishing up the Hardcore Trailwork thinger I joined in on for Sunday and Monday. Trail Days in Damascus was quite the fine time. Got to catch up with all the hikers I had passed and had passed me since starting in April, see a lot of hippies dancing around bonfires and generally enjoy a lot of free food. Also got to meet Gene Espy, the second man to ever thru-hike (bushwhack) the AT in 1951 and see a lot of hippies dancing around bonfires.
Sunday morning we were whisked back to Tennessee to build new trail with 100 or so other enthusiastic hikers(switchbacks where it used to go straight up) just north of Watauga Dam. Got to paint me first white blaze!!! This was pretty huge for me and hopefully a photo will surface from the Tennessee Eastman Hiking Club that runs it at some point. It's a pretty little 2x6 in. blaze with sharp corners and a good fill if I might say so myself. Southbounders will never be lost again. Also pretty cool since I had only been through that part of the old trail 5 days prior and it SUCKED. It's a much better grade and easier climb these days. On Monday we built more new trail over near Carvers Gap and Roan Mountain, TN and had a big feed last night where we got our Hardcore patches. Ready to get back on the trail up north of Damascus this morning but bummed I'm going to get to use the word HARDCORE with less and less relevancy.
So yeah, shuttle back to the trail today and can't feel my arms from swinging those dirt tools these past few days but it was a pretty great experience with a lot of great folks. Will update again sooooon!
Sunday morning we were whisked back to Tennessee to build new trail with 100 or so other enthusiastic hikers(switchbacks where it used to go straight up) just north of Watauga Dam. Got to paint me first white blaze!!! This was pretty huge for me and hopefully a photo will surface from the Tennessee Eastman Hiking Club that runs it at some point. It's a pretty little 2x6 in. blaze with sharp corners and a good fill if I might say so myself. Southbounders will never be lost again. Also pretty cool since I had only been through that part of the old trail 5 days prior and it SUCKED. It's a much better grade and easier climb these days. On Monday we built more new trail over near Carvers Gap and Roan Mountain, TN and had a big feed last night where we got our Hardcore patches. Ready to get back on the trail up north of Damascus this morning but bummed I'm going to get to use the word HARDCORE with less and less relevancy.
So yeah, shuttle back to the trail today and can't feel my arms from swinging those dirt tools these past few days but it was a pretty great experience with a lot of great folks. Will update again sooooon!
Friday, May 15, 2009
Tuesday, May 12, 2009
Trail Days Shmail Days
Juuuuuust got into good old Virginia this morning!! Big step in a young Kim's life. Interesting to roll into the sleepy town of Damascus, VA knowing that in two days 20,000 people will descend upon it for the Trail Days festival. Damascus is in quite the beautiful stop where the AT, the Virginia Creeper Trail (rail-turned-bike trail), the Crooked Road Music Heritage Trail, and some sort of rando Wildlife trail intersect. MOST importantly though...it is in Congressman Rick Boucher's district, who hill staffer Rob Cowden tells me is quite the popular politician around here (Rob I want a hat). So yeah, trail days should be interesting. Former thru-hikers, locals, hiking enthusiasts and the AT 'Class of 2009' will join together to get open container citations from the new Sheriff (apparently the hot-button issue in 2008). All the trail legends we've both met and heard about will be here too. I was lucky enough to meet Baltimore Jack two days ago at Kincora Hostel in Hampton, VA, run by his good friend and other trail legend Bob Peoples.
Baltimore Jack was wearing a shirt that said "Bill Bryson is a Candy Ass" when we met. I had to introduce myself because he lives in good old Hanover, NH and lo and behold...he says he's good friends with John Chapin (the jacketed Chapin-friend) of Canoe Club, asks if I'm one of those 'sororstitutes', and offers me Yeungling in one hand and whiskey in the other (only had a little bit, Ma). I wish I could describe it all better but he lived up to all expectations. Bob Peoples, on the other hand, is probably one of the nicest people I've ever met in my life. He opens his home to hikers every year for a bunk, shower, laundry and shuttles them all over and asks for a $4 donation in return. He runs this big trail work excursion that starts right after trail days called Hard Core where they put you up, feed you, and hope to instill the importance of trail maintenance and giving back in hikers. Pretty sure I'm gonna do it - aside from lugging huge rocks around, I hear it's an amazing experience. Bah I have to go. Hogging internet. This was not very well organized, nor explained well - but perhaps it will make sense in pictures someday. LAATERS.
Baltimore Jack was wearing a shirt that said "Bill Bryson is a Candy Ass" when we met. I had to introduce myself because he lives in good old Hanover, NH and lo and behold...he says he's good friends with John Chapin (the jacketed Chapin-friend) of Canoe Club, asks if I'm one of those 'sororstitutes', and offers me Yeungling in one hand and whiskey in the other (only had a little bit, Ma). I wish I could describe it all better but he lived up to all expectations. Bob Peoples, on the other hand, is probably one of the nicest people I've ever met in my life. He opens his home to hikers every year for a bunk, shower, laundry and shuttles them all over and asks for a $4 donation in return. He runs this big trail work excursion that starts right after trail days called Hard Core where they put you up, feed you, and hope to instill the importance of trail maintenance and giving back in hikers. Pretty sure I'm gonna do it - aside from lugging huge rocks around, I hear it's an amazing experience. Bah I have to go. Hogging internet. This was not very well organized, nor explained well - but perhaps it will make sense in pictures someday. LAATERS.
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