In Her Element

posted by Clare Fieseler

After living with Kim for the two year’s after college, I was blessed enough to see Kim’s determination to hike the AT flourish from an inclination to an outright resolution. Kinda like Banjos, Marathons, and Hummus. (Ironically, Hummus has given her the most difficulty.) I could see it progress from the day we all first moved into Fort Bacon in Dupont Circle. The more she saw of the mountains west of our little city apartment, the more I saw her point her attention to all things Appalachian. The music. The coal culture. The confluences. She became hooked. Kim was Googling “mountain top mining” more than the average 23-year-old Googled “brad-gelina.” Through a few weekend trips out to Shenandoah National Park and Harper’s Ferry, Kim and I brushed up with some strange folk, random occurrences, and just quirky encounters with a culture that is simpler, slower, and more in touch with the great natural beauty around. Perhaps that’s why is seems quirky and strange at first. Your time out in the “sticks” goes from entertaining to just gosh darn preferable to anything city-life can offer.

Kim is in her element – the Appalachian element. I’ve seen it with my own eyes. On May 8th, I drove out to Roan Mountain, TN from my home in Durham, NC. I pulled up late in the evening (after a few detours in bustling Boone,NC) to a gorgeous rehabbed barn/ hiker lodge along a babbling brook, where horse where grazing right next to the entrance. Is this Heaven? No. It’s Tennessee.

Upon seeing Kim - dirty, wet, and rugged - I couldn’t help but give her a big bear hug. She smelt better than I expected. Not roses, but not shabby for a thru-hiker. I was soon introduced to a room of mostly 40 or 50 year old mean with names like Bear Bait and Tibet. For trail magic – I had brought Kim her favorite – Rainbow Rice Krispie Treats and a thirty pack of Miller Lite. The community of thru-hikers are so generous with the few luxuries they are able to get (ie. brownies or bandaids). So no beer was wasted that first night, but the marshmellowy goodness was stored for trail fuel. As I met some of Kim’s trail friends, I was forced to call her by her trial name Blue Sky. Awkward at first, I grew to love it.

I had forgotten a tent, so Kim let me sleep in her one-man tent through the rainy night. It was cozy, and I think we both kinda liked the shared space. It was like old times, minus a temporary wall. At about 3:30am that night I woke up to Kim scrambling over me to get out the tent. Then came the heaves. And the splat. Oh no. Kim got deathly ill with what could only be described by the other hikers as “thru-hiker’s flu.” At least no swine were involved. Some Gatorade, Peptobismal, and Michael J. Fox movies later in the B&B/Barn, Kim was still feeling ill but stronger. She wanted to get back on the trail, despite my hesitations. She was a champ and hiked in 4 miles late that afternoon after taking all morning to recuperate. We collapsed exhausted (me from my own bad shape!) on a side ATV path away just off the main white blazes. Some chicken noodle soup and peanut butter on rolls got the job done. And we climbed into snug our tent at 8pm for bed, listening to strong winds blow over the clouded Tennessee Hills.

That was the first night in about a year where I didn’t here a single thing all night but the birds and the wind.

Kim woke up the next morning with a big smile on her face, puke-free mentality, and an extra large spoonful of instant coffee. With Oatmeal-full bellies we began our 20 mile day hike. There was a fabled house up the trail where an all-day trail magic (read: free for thru-hikers!) BBQ was happening. We had to reach it by 7pm if we wanted to partake.

Boy, did I overestimate my own lack of stamina due to graduate-student neglect. At first, I was just enjoying the natural beauty of the area and the stories Kim was telling me about the other thru-hikers she had met. But at about mile 13 I was cursing the whole expedition and needed assistance from Kim’s hiking poles. I was awed by the ease at which Kim tramps 10, 20, sometimes 30 miles each day. Blue Sky is known as one of the fastest hikers on the trail. Multiple other hikers told me so. Our little Kim. I couldn’t believe it.

I’ll tell you what. She’s tough as nails, folks. TOUGH AS NAILS.

By mile 18 I was feeling better. Chicken chili, dark chocolate, and a gradual decline into a beautiful fern gully restored my senses and my will to go on. We reached the trail magic house (a house just off the trail where Slow Train, a former thru-hiker, lives). Heapings of pasta, brownies, and fruit to refueled us. I was able to meet even more of Blue Sky’s friends, fellow hikers, past hikers, and plain old AT enthusiasts. Each person I met talked about the beauty and burdens of life on the trail. The common theme was a sense of respect not just for Katahdin, but for the trail in general and what it represents to each hiker.

That next morning I drove back to NC and set off for Belize 72 hour later to collect data for my master’s project. Most people may consider the coconut lined beaches here “paradise” but I’d say the Tennessee Hills put up a good fight for that title. Yesterday, I saw some tourist reading Bill Bryson’s “A Walk in the Woods” (an account of the author attempting to thru-hike) and I was inspired to write this blog post.

The AT embodies the rugged, wild, and community-based spirit of the Appalachia region. Kim seems to have become the mayor of this dirt path and the family of boots that tramp along it. Kim’s interactions with the other thru-hikers is genuine and forthright. Ask anyone on the trail and they’ll know Blue Sky. They’ll treat you as family simply for being her companion. As for Kim herself: She’s determined more than ever to finish the trail in August. But more than this determination – I think she’s devoted to simply experiencing the Trail for all its worth. Everything that is NEW and CHALLENGING is on her agenda. Hummus bowls nationwide watch out.

Kim, I’m so proud of you. Keep chugging. I’ll be at High Point, NJ waiting and serving as your official state ambassador.