Saturday, May 30, 2009

In Her Element

posted by Clare Fieseler

After living with Kim for the two year’s after college, I was blessed enough to see Kim’s determination to hike the AT flourish from an inclination to an outright resolution. Kinda like Banjos, Marathons, and Hummus. (Ironically, Hummus has given her the most difficulty.) I could see it progress from the day we all first moved into Fort Bacon in Dupont Circle. The more she saw of the mountains west of our little city apartment, the more I saw her point her attention to all things Appalachian. The music. The coal culture. The confluences. She became hooked. Kim was Googling “mountain top mining” more than the average 23-year-old Googled “brad-gelina.” Through a few weekend trips out to Shenandoah National Park and Harper’s Ferry, Kim and I brushed up with some strange folk, random occurrences, and just quirky encounters with a culture that is simpler, slower, and more in touch with the great natural beauty around. Perhaps that’s why is seems quirky and strange at first. Your time out in the “sticks” goes from entertaining to just gosh darn preferable to anything city-life can offer.

Kim is in her element – the Appalachian element. I’ve seen it with my own eyes. On May 8th, I drove out to Roan Mountain, TN from my home in Durham, NC. I pulled up late in the evening (after a few detours in bustling Boone,NC) to a gorgeous rehabbed barn/ hiker lodge along a babbling brook, where horse where grazing right next to the entrance. Is this Heaven? No. It’s Tennessee.

Upon seeing Kim - dirty, wet, and rugged - I couldn’t help but give her a big bear hug. She smelt better than I expected. Not roses, but not shabby for a thru-hiker. I was soon introduced to a room of mostly 40 or 50 year old mean with names like Bear Bait and Tibet. For trail magic – I had brought Kim her favorite – Rainbow Rice Krispie Treats and a thirty pack of Miller Lite. The community of thru-hikers are so generous with the few luxuries they are able to get (ie. brownies or bandaids). So no beer was wasted that first night, but the marshmellowy goodness was stored for trail fuel. As I met some of Kim’s trail friends, I was forced to call her by her trial name Blue Sky. Awkward at first, I grew to love it.

I had forgotten a tent, so Kim let me sleep in her one-man tent through the rainy night. It was cozy, and I think we both kinda liked the shared space. It was like old times, minus a temporary wall. At about 3:30am that night I woke up to Kim scrambling over me to get out the tent. Then came the heaves. And the splat. Oh no. Kim got deathly ill with what could only be described by the other hikers as “thru-hiker’s flu.” At least no swine were involved. Some Gatorade, Peptobismal, and Michael J. Fox movies later in the B&B/Barn, Kim was still feeling ill but stronger. She wanted to get back on the trail, despite my hesitations. She was a champ and hiked in 4 miles late that afternoon after taking all morning to recuperate. We collapsed exhausted (me from my own bad shape!) on a side ATV path away just off the main white blazes. Some chicken noodle soup and peanut butter on rolls got the job done. And we climbed into snug our tent at 8pm for bed, listening to strong winds blow over the clouded Tennessee Hills.

That was the first night in about a year where I didn’t here a single thing all night but the birds and the wind.

Kim woke up the next morning with a big smile on her face, puke-free mentality, and an extra large spoonful of instant coffee. With Oatmeal-full bellies we began our 20 mile day hike. There was a fabled house up the trail where an all-day trail magic (read: free for thru-hikers!) BBQ was happening. We had to reach it by 7pm if we wanted to partake.

Boy, did I overestimate my own lack of stamina due to graduate-student neglect. At first, I was just enjoying the natural beauty of the area and the stories Kim was telling me about the other thru-hikers she had met. But at about mile 13 I was cursing the whole expedition and needed assistance from Kim’s hiking poles. I was awed by the ease at which Kim tramps 10, 20, sometimes 30 miles each day. Blue Sky is known as one of the fastest hikers on the trail. Multiple other hikers told me so. Our little Kim. I couldn’t believe it.

I’ll tell you what. She’s tough as nails, folks. TOUGH AS NAILS.

By mile 18 I was feeling better. Chicken chili, dark chocolate, and a gradual decline into a beautiful fern gully restored my senses and my will to go on. We reached the trail magic house (a house just off the trail where Slow Train, a former thru-hiker, lives). Heapings of pasta, brownies, and fruit to refueled us. I was able to meet even more of Blue Sky’s friends, fellow hikers, past hikers, and plain old AT enthusiasts. Each person I met talked about the beauty and burdens of life on the trail. The common theme was a sense of respect not just for Katahdin, but for the trail in general and what it represents to each hiker.

That next morning I drove back to NC and set off for Belize 72 hour later to collect data for my master’s project. Most people may consider the coconut lined beaches here “paradise” but I’d say the Tennessee Hills put up a good fight for that title. Yesterday, I saw some tourist reading Bill Bryson’s “A Walk in the Woods” (an account of the author attempting to thru-hike) and I was inspired to write this blog post.

The AT embodies the rugged, wild, and community-based spirit of the Appalachia region. Kim seems to have become the mayor of this dirt path and the family of boots that tramp along it. Kim’s interactions with the other thru-hikers is genuine and forthright. Ask anyone on the trail and they’ll know Blue Sky. They’ll treat you as family simply for being her companion. As for Kim herself: She’s determined more than ever to finish the trail in August. But more than this determination – I think she’s devoted to simply experiencing the Trail for all its worth. Everything that is NEW and CHALLENGING is on her agenda. Hummus bowls nationwide watch out.

Kim, I’m so proud of you. Keep chugging. I’ll be at High Point, NJ waiting and serving as your official state ambassador.

Tuesday, May 26, 2009

Home Is Where You Hang Your Bearbag

So today has turned into a 'zero day' in Pearisburg, VA since it's pouring rain with thunderstorms expected this afternoon. Yeah, wimpy...but I think my feet will very much appreciate the recovery as a pinky toe blister has been making life rather difficult these past few days. Yeah, pinky toe - the most unassuming and useless of the toes. But anywho - more blog!!!

* At a restaurant in Atkins, VA a few days back the only sign at the register was about a gun rack for sale. I almost cracked a smile. I also almost talked myself into needing a gun rack. (Wayne's World reference)

* Do not accidentally use white heat instead of denatured alcohol in your soda can stove if you do not want to start forest fires or lose armhair.

* Bland, VA lives up to its good name.

* I'm now carrying a bible - I have yet to open it. I'm thinkin maybe tomorrow.

* Lingo. "Purists" - those who stick to the trail and make sure they hit every white blaze. I think I'm falling into this camp. "Blue-blazers" - take short cuts on blue blazed trails to spots further up the AT or take alternate routes just to check out some point of interest - other peaks, swimming holes, Wawas, etc. "Aqua-blazers" - hop on a canoe or kayak on the Shenandoah River which parallels the trail for awhile to knock out some miles afloat instead of on foot. Tempting. "Pink-blazers" - AT equivalent of skirt-chasers. Their mileage and or routes dependent on those of the scarce female population out here. "Yellow-blazers" - get rides everywhere. Clever clever stuff.

* Trail names. Some people choose their own, most people aquire them. There are at least 3 Freebirds, One Steps, Dreamcatchers and Hatchets out here. Some of my favorites:

Thunderpants and SIS: Young married couple. He has rampant gas and she "Suffers In Silence".
Wimbledon: Hikes with sweat/headband and strongly resembles Richie Tenenbaum.
Smiletrain: Some people would describe him as "negative" - he generally reminds me of a crotchety old man. He found a bracelet on top of Clingman's Dome and put it on saying he was going to take it to Maine for kicks. Three days later he realized it says Smiletrain on it. Appropriate.
Moontower: Looks just like Slater from Dazed and Confused.

Yeah I can't remember any other good ones at the moment. Always blank when I hit these computers. Back to idling around Pearisburg. If you have any odd questions about stuff out here leave'em in comments and I'll answer!

40 Miles From Denver

Hello hello and greetings from the downtown metropolis of Pearisburg, Virginia on the New River. Looks like I'll be heading into a few days o'rain from here but otherwise everything is in good working order. Let's do this in bullet format:

* PONIES!!!! Grayson Highlands State Park just north of Damascus has some pretty aggro, yet adorable, wild ponies. They're pretty accustomed to hikers rolling through at this point so they go straight for your foodbag. They also must be accustomed to hikers trying to hop on and ride them because when a friend did so, it ran straight for where there was barbed wire strung 4 ft off the ground to try to clothesline him. Cute ponies. Pics soon.

* More magic. One magical Saturday morning we came upon a road crossing with three people waiting by some SUVs asking us if we wanted a hot meal. Turns out they're from ATOM, the Appalachian Trail Outreach Ministry of the Methodist Church. If I were to ever die a death from kindness, it would be surrounded by these people. They took us to the local church a mile away where they sat us down at a long table and shoved food, coffee & OJ in our faces for an hour - pancakes, sausage, bread pudding, bananas, cookies, apple sauce, biscuits, grits, gravy - it was pretty serious. The group said they used to do similar trips to do outreach for the church in Mexico but they decided to switch to ATOM. Apparently in the New World Order, us hiker folk are on the level with Mexicans. I like this.

* Continuation of magic. We got back to the trail after the church only to find another set up a half mile down the road doing hot dogs, chili, ice cream, etc. Two guys - Stumblefoot and Insomniac - who had section hiked the whole trail over 10 years while full-time coal miners in Eastern WV, decided they wanted to pay back all the favors they received while hiking by throwing a hiker feed on the trail. They said they had gotten so many things from people while out there, but never money - which is something I think is pretty cool about being out here. Insomniac had a sweet tat on his arm (which was no small arm) which was a map of the whole trail. Pics to come, yet again.

* Welp, lots more has happened. Blisters have kicked up, saw a tiny tiny bear cup climbing a tree (momentarily 'awww'ing until I realized it was time to get the heeeelll outta there before Mama Bear came back), and in the next week or so I'll be getting into driving range of DC so come visit meeeee!!!!! See how funky I smell, how cut up my shins are, and the sweet poison ivy I will have acquired by then.

Okay, more to come soon. Missing everyone!

Tuesday, May 19, 2009

Roan Mountain High

Mom, I'm alive! Currently back in Hampton, TN right now after finishing up the Hardcore Trailwork thinger I joined in on for Sunday and Monday. Trail Days in Damascus was quite the fine time. Got to catch up with all the hikers I had passed and had passed me since starting in April, see a lot of hippies dancing around bonfires and generally enjoy a lot of free food. Also got to meet Gene Espy, the second man to ever thru-hike (bushwhack) the AT in 1951 and see a lot of hippies dancing around bonfires.

Sunday morning we were whisked back to Tennessee to build new trail with 100 or so other enthusiastic hikers(switchbacks where it used to go straight up) just north of Watauga Dam. Got to paint me first white blaze!!! This was pretty huge for me and hopefully a photo will surface from the Tennessee Eastman Hiking Club that runs it at some point. It's a pretty little 2x6 in. blaze with sharp corners and a good fill if I might say so myself. Southbounders will never be lost again. Also pretty cool since I had only been through that part of the old trail 5 days prior and it SUCKED. It's a much better grade and easier climb these days. On Monday we built more new trail over near Carvers Gap and Roan Mountain, TN and had a big feed last night where we got our Hardcore patches. Ready to get back on the trail up north of Damascus this morning but bummed I'm going to get to use the word HARDCORE with less and less relevancy.

So yeah, shuttle back to the trail today and can't feel my arms from swinging those dirt tools these past few days but it was a pretty great experience with a lot of great folks. Will update again sooooon!

Friday, May 15, 2009

Photatoes

Pics up on me facebook profile!

Tuesday, May 12, 2009

Trail Days Shmail Days

Juuuuuust got into good old Virginia this morning!! Big step in a young Kim's life. Interesting to roll into the sleepy town of Damascus, VA knowing that in two days 20,000 people will descend upon it for the Trail Days festival. Damascus is in quite the beautiful stop where the AT, the Virginia Creeper Trail (rail-turned-bike trail), the Crooked Road Music Heritage Trail, and some sort of rando Wildlife trail intersect. MOST importantly though...it is in Congressman Rick Boucher's district, who hill staffer Rob Cowden tells me is quite the popular politician around here (Rob I want a hat). So yeah, trail days should be interesting. Former thru-hikers, locals, hiking enthusiasts and the AT 'Class of 2009' will join together to get open container citations from the new Sheriff (apparently the hot-button issue in 2008). All the trail legends we've both met and heard about will be here too. I was lucky enough to meet Baltimore Jack two days ago at Kincora Hostel in Hampton, VA, run by his good friend and other trail legend Bob Peoples.

Baltimore Jack was wearing a shirt that said "Bill Bryson is a Candy Ass" when we met. I had to introduce myself because he lives in good old Hanover, NH and lo and behold...he says he's good friends with John Chapin (the jacketed Chapin-friend) of Canoe Club, asks if I'm one of those 'sororstitutes', and offers me Yeungling in one hand and whiskey in the other (only had a little bit, Ma). I wish I could describe it all better but he lived up to all expectations. Bob Peoples, on the other hand, is probably one of the nicest people I've ever met in my life. He opens his home to hikers every year for a bunk, shower, laundry and shuttles them all over and asks for a $4 donation in return. He runs this big trail work excursion that starts right after trail days called Hard Core where they put you up, feed you, and hope to instill the importance of trail maintenance and giving back in hikers. Pretty sure I'm gonna do it - aside from lugging huge rocks around, I hear it's an amazing experience. Bah I have to go. Hogging internet. This was not very well organized, nor explained well - but perhaps it will make sense in pictures someday. LAATERS.

Sunday, May 10, 2009

I Think I Caught the Giardia, Pop

Morning, morning and a Happy Mother's Day to all the Mamas out there. I will be giving mine a call shortly (letting you sleep in Mama Kath!). Currently at Laurel Fork Lodge near Hampton, TN and two days hiking from Damascus!! Pondering attempting the 40mi challenge which is doing the last 40mi into Damascus in a day. Could be interesting/painful/and/or/silly. We'll see. In other news, Ms. Clare Fieseler just left me (sniff) after 3 days with me on this here trail. She rolled up to Roan Mountain, TN on Friday just in time to share a tent with me on the night I caught the wicked 24hr flu making rounds with thru-hikers. After a fine 10-12 hrs of dry-heaving, moaning, whining, throwin back immodium, throwin it back up and mentally writing my will, things started to turn around and we were able to make it 3-4mi into the woods. Then in a Fieseler Feat of Strength, she accompanied me on a 20mi day into Hampton, TN where we happened upon a cabin where former thru-hikers were throwing a big hiker feed complete with pasta, s'mores and Franzia...best trail magic yet. I believe we'll see a post on here from Ms. Fieseler herself when she gets back to Durham, so hold your breath.

I have more I want to write on Erwin, TN from 4 days or so back, from Clare's wonderful visit and general plans going forward, but I'm a lazy piece that needs to tend to laundry at the moment...so until then.

Tuesday, May 5, 2009

Mountain Ghost Stories

Copied a few days back from the intro to Mountain Ghost Stories of Western Carolina at Elmer's Sunnybank Inn, which - shockingly - I picked up to read (good stuff):

"The stories contained in this book have one important thing in common, an intimate association with a particular place. It is our goal that these tales serve to enrich one's own association with that place, whether visiting the mountains of Western North Carolina, remembering them, or taking up residence among their rocky valleys and forested peaks. Many faraway lives are represented there, but each life can still be felt by stepping out of a car and placing a hand upon a tree or a foot upon a trail, or by pausing briefly in the fragrant morning or evening air at a scenic overlook among these magical mountains."

Just liked it and felt appropriate. Fell asleep to the sound of trains passing through next to the Nolichucky River last night. Anywho, as I leave Erwin today I'll be heading north towards Hampton, TN and Damascus, VA. Hoping 'trail magic' will pick up a bit as we get closer to the trail days festival. Trail magic are those wonderful wonderful surprises left for you by former thru-hikers, local hiking clubs, or aaanyone looking to throw a thru-hiker a bone. Sometimes they'll leave a big plastic bin in the middle of the woods with cupcakes in it or they'll set up a grill at a gap to serve up free burgers for an afternoon. It's pretty serious excitement. I think my most favorite was the cold Natty Ice I found on a sign post in Plum Orchard Gap, GA. Turns out it was left there by a fellow thru-hiker who acquired a case in a supermarket parking lot when a van rolled up and the fellow inside said he had confiscated some beers from his 16 year-old and asked if they wanted them...cause he sure as hell wasn't going to drink Natty Ice.

Magic.

So yeah things are still well. At mile 370 and pushing on to sweet sweet Virginia.

Monday, May 4, 2009

Workin' On A New Railroad

Mud up to my knees.

Holy crap!! It got rainy as hell up in here. Spent the past few days mucking through some grim weather and a saturated trail. Still more or less walking the NC/TN border and currently at Uncle Johnny's Nolichucky River Hostel right outside the thriving metropolis of Erwin, TN. Shower, laundry, bam... I decided to be a hard guy (cheap guy) and tent in the yard for $8 instead of take a bunk for $15...this could have been a horrible decision. So that's where I am - and I gotta stay I'm still quite happy to be here. More on the actual trail when I hop back on this computer in a bit.

Friday, May 1, 2009

OH and

HAPPY BIRTHDAY B'JULIA J'BAXTER

Lowering a Bear's Self Esteem

Helloooo from Hot Springs, North Carolina - first town we actually just walk into and the trail goes down Main St. They have a Dollar General here...it's kind of a dream. Special thanks to Mr. Michaelson for the Popcorn Sutton update. I actually met a hiker named Junior who happened to have some of his last batch o'moonshine and it was apparently deeelicious.

Stayed at an amazin hostel here last night called Elmer's Sunnybank Inn. It's a big oole house built in 1840 with a library, music room (with a banjer), pancakes in the morning, porch swings - good stuff. Needed the sleep too cause the night before we had another bear in camp on Bluff Mtn. I shall name this bear "Persistent" since he came back 5 times and got two food bags (not mine!). Hiker 'silver hammer' was saying before we went to bed that he really wanted to boo a bear. You know...make it feel a little bad about itself. Strategy was unfortunately not so effective. I don't think it was until the whole camp threw rocks and sang Bohemian Rhapsody to it that Persistent the Bear took off to be booed and fed elsewhere.

Otherwise the wildflowers have been beautiful (I swear I'll get pics up one of these days), the cabot cheese plentiful, and Hot Springs most wonderful. And to those of you giving me a hard time about how often I have internet access - well...yeah. Deal. Who's going to Cheatfest this weekend instead of Gold Cup?

Next stop will be Erwin, TN and Kaethe I unfortunately can't haul ass up to Hanover by June 14th. But I wish Scott a wonderful graduation - I remember when he was a wee prospie(they grow up so fast!) Peace a'pizza!